are on the sieze.....
fitted new pads and they are sticking.

combined sysyem so its the 3pots and the centre works of the rear while the two outside work the front.

so i got lucas red brake assembly grease,,, a litre of dot5 and some tubing for bleeding..

has anyone pics of a ctrip down and rebuild.

i'v been a fitter for over 20 yrs,, and all i ever done was rip off cylinders and fit new ones... it'll be new to me (not that i have never) to strip down and rebuild.
i checked and cleaned the outer lip and put in the pads,, and now i'm told the moisture can build corrosion behind the seal,, stopping it working 100%

any difference to bleed or is there a pattern to where to bleed first?

fekin hate working with brake fluid on a bike because of the damage it can do

 

Just done mine, one caliper was seizing, one piston not retreating. Two-pot not three. There was a lot of build-up behind the outer dust seals, a bit like calcium. Scraped it out and fitted new seals (piston and dust seals) and new pistons though not sure they were necessary. Brakes OK now. I believe you bleed the right side first but an expert will be along shortly I'm sure... and I think there are other threads that explain how to do it.

 

yip... thats what i was told it was like,,
but was told the seals would be ok..
just to take them out, clean & red grease them, re-build & bleed.

jeepzzz !! prob need seals now you mention it.

i'll not be doing it to monday or tuesday,,, so if there are any links
i'd appreciate any info or help

 

blaziken

I seem to remember it says in the Haynes manual it's best to fit new seals as they're pretty cheap - not worth risking safety or having to strip it all down again for the sake of a few quid. Unless the pistons are scratched you can prob re-use them.

Dunno if this is right, but I removed the caliper, removed the pads, pushed both pistons out together using the brake lever (used towels to catch the brake fluid), cleaned caliper chambers, fitted the new piston seals (easy) after soaking in brake fluid, fitted the new dust seals coated in a bit of grease (took blimmin ages - this was when I discovered the crud build-up), pushed the pistons back in by thumb pressure (covered in brake fluid), fitted the pads, mounted caliper on bike, did the bleeding.

Seem to work OK now.

 

It's basically removing the caliper, popping out the piston (with hydraulic or air pressure), cleaning it up, replacing the seals, re-installing, and then bleeding.
There's a method to bleeding the dual systems that's in the honda manual (section 13). There's also some info in the Haynes Manual (section 7.. pp. 79-81)

If you don't have the manuals, you can get the Honda manual HERE and the Haynes Manual HERE. (both coming from my personal stash of manuals. )

There's a thread somewhere with a write-up, too (I think). If you do a search on bleeding brakes you can probably find it.
It may be helpful to get a mity vac brake bleeder for this. They're like $30 at Sears and other auto parts places.

 

thanks for the replys lads,, if its good i'll get stuck in monday or tuesday...
missin being out.

 

If the piston is hanging up, don't reuse the piston seal. It's the sael that is bad. When you apply the brakes the piston pushes out and distorts the seal. When you release the brake it's the seal that pulls the piston back into the caliper. If the seal gets hard it won't flex. I've had to replace the seal on the CB400F a few times over the years as well as on the XR350R.

 

i would change all the break fluid too if it hasnt been done in a while.

 

Do you mean DOT5.1 fluid ?

DOT5 is silicone fluid and may not be compatible with the seals in the honda system - It is also not mixable with DOT4 or 5.1

Have a look at the Paul Smeeton bitz for bikes site - he does some nice prices on seals and pistons if you need them.

Seal kits were around £20 a caliper
Piston and seal kits are around £50 a caliper

 

well, i gave it a go today,
stripped and rebuilt them.
there are 3 pistons in each and are all different sizes.
to be honest i founf **** all wrong.

the seals still felt soft and were intact
a fine dirty black line on the inside end on them all,,, bit like a line of rubber

gave it all a good brake clean,, well greased and bleed the system.
at the beginning ,, as i stripped off the pipes on each cylinder i clamped the pipes,, overhauled the caliper and bleed it before moving on. just to avoid a total pressure loss.
then at the end i pumped them all clearing out all the old fluids.

front is working good now, but thee handle comes in too far,which i expect is the new pads need to bed in and harden.
then in about 100 mile i'll give it another bleed.

but its coming together.

i stuck in dot5 throughout,,,
and i'v just read the post above.
i'll double check its contents in the morning,, but pretty sure its dot5(not 5.1

chit usually happens eh!

panic is over and some experience gained,, next time it'll be a strip down,it'll be new seals everywhere.