So I wanted to bleed my clutch and started running into problems shortly after.

Originally I bled my clutch and overfilled the master cylinder, forcing the excess brake fluid out. Which made me think I was leaking, so I ordered a rebuild kit.

Well I rebled it will I was waiting and it seemed to fix it.

Now I was going to rebuild my clutch master cylinder and my friends and took it off and cleaned it. I got down to where I need the special pliers with the little pin to take off the washer. Unfortunately I didn't bring that so I had to put it back together and go to my house to get it.

Well I filled it with new fluid and bleed it and the actual pressure on the clutch feels amazing, better than it has in a while. The thing is now I only need to pull the clutch in a fraction for it to completely disengage. I used to need to pull my clutch lever almost 3/4 of the way to the handle bar and then when I let go it would start engaging. Now it doesn't engange until it's all the way out. It is also slipping now.

I took my lever off and I used a pair of pliers to twist the metal piece the pushrod on the clutch lever presses counter-clockwise and then took it for a test drive and it felt a lot better (I also loosened the nipple at the slave cylinder first) and it felt good. Well I bled it again directly after that and now it feels bad again. Now friction zone, it's basically disengaged or engaged, it also slips on the freeway.

I'm assuming I definately have to rebuild it now, I just want to know if its because of something I did wrong. Also I removed the little 3 star clip inside the master cylinder when I was going to rebuild it and just placed it back, I dont know if there is a procedure I'm supposed to follow

 

Here's what I think happened , the push rod was not fully engaged in the lever,
then later it became so, now you have air in there still , needs to be bled again a
few times , the star "protector" goes right back the way you took it off with the
flap facing the clutch line end.

Sometimes air gets in at the threads at the bleed nipple , teflon tape on the thread
can help if this is a problem. I used a mity-vac on mine , makes it waaay easier to
bleed.

I also had to replace the slave down at the clutch push rod located at the sprocket
cover as that seal was toast also .....

Just the low down on my similar problem on my 1990 1000F

 

I don't feel like there is air in it though. The lever actually feels a lot firmer than it ever has.

The issue is that is used to need to be pulled in atleast halfway to the handlebars to disengage the clutch. Now I pull it a few mm's and it completely disengages the clutch..

 

Somethings up then man , did the rebuild go back in the exact way it came out ?

Halfway to the Bar in this case (no pun intended ) is where the engagement of
the clutch usually occurs , is the clutch rod sitting correctly in the slave cylinder ?

This is a new issue to me at least...very weird

 

What do you mean in the slave cylinder? The only thing I fiddled with down there is the nipple for bleeding

 

There's a whole caliper piston actuator right there integrated into the sprocket cover 3 bolts pull it off and you shall see the clutch rod that runs
to the other side of the motor.....actuating the clutch itself


Right here parts group # 8 and related

 

Okay so I rebuilt the master cylinder and after bleeding it multiple times it seemed to be working fine.

Previously, the problem was that the clutch was always partially engaged, and it only took a few mm of pulling the clutch in to completely disengage it. It eventually turned into full on slipping.

I've been riding it a few days and the point of disengagement is getting further in. IE, I have to pull the clutch in less for it to completely disengage.

Do you think this is an issue with air in the line or something going on with the slave cylinder? I've tried to look for rebuild kits but I haven't been able to find any.

Edit: On my lunch break a bled by cracking the banjo at the master twice and it's not staying engaged/slipping anymore, but I'm not sure how long that will last, or if it was just caused by air that I didn't completely remove?

 

Bump ?

 

Okay ........life gets in the way sometimes job , life etc ......... found your bump

Well there are slave kits out there , that being said I just slapped a new slave on her
but was lucky I got it super cheap on Ebay.

Before you go that route look closely at your kickstand - do you see an oily grime
laden residue ----- if so ------ yes your slave seal is leaking and kaput letting brake
fluid leak past the slave seal into the sprocket cover and down on to the kickstand.

This is how mine went and your issue reads exactly how mine was. I ended up
rebuilding the master and as I said before slapped a new slave on her. Bleeding
it out was the usual pain in the **** but using a mity vac made it easier

 

Yeah my kickstand was definitely looking a little grimey.

I saw a Slave cylinder rebuilld kit for 20 bucks and a used slave cylinder for 40 both on ebay. The new part I found for around 100 bucks on www.bikebandit.com

I went ahead and bought the used slave with 29k miles.. I also already rebuilt my master, so hopefully this will end my issues.

Thanks SPROCK