Is there any clutch adjustment mechanism on the 87? I've got a bit of clutch slip which I think maybe down to the Car engine oil I've used , but also the bite at the lever is right at the end of its travel.

Cheers

 

Not that I know of, sounds like you may have "energy conserving" aka friction modified
oil in there which will cause a wet clutch to slip !. I'd change it asap !

Make sure there's no "energy conserving" stamp on whatever new stuff you get.
(at least that's how they stamp it here in the US)

Personally I use Castrol 4T bike specific oil ......20/50 weight

Other than that you may just have a worn out clutch with weak springs! ...

 

Thanks Sprock. I had no problem before the lay up of 10years but in the process of making her roadworthy again I used a cheap car engine oil . So its being changed again tomorrow. And may be the clutch lever hydraulic fluid as well . .

Looks like I can get hold of this http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_165507 Castrol Power 1 GPS 4T 10W-40 high performance

Cheers

 

Welcome back on the road! You'll get a lot of help here from guys with a lot of experience with this bike.

As SPROCK said.

I note your choice of oil in your link....

From my point of view (and that of Mr Honda) - don't waste your money on expensive oils - use the specified oils that are listed in the manual (and Owner's Manual - page 63) ...
Pro-Honda GN4, or its equivilent, which is a mineral based oil (not synthetic) to the specification of SE, SF, SG.

This means buy the cheapest oil that meets the SE, SF, SG spec on the container.

Hope this saves you some money and stress.

Click here to download HONDA OILS - http://tinyurl.com/26duwne
A lot of people will be surprised to find that most Honda bikes are recommended to use mineral oils -GN4 or equivalent - (not the expensive synthetics that oil companies and their marketing departments would have us believe we must buy!|) Trust Mr Honda - he designed & built your motor!



http://picasaweb.google.com.au/lh/ph...eat=directlink

(If you want to read more on oils, do a search, you'll find guys here using diesel oils also - which is a great option - but that's a longer story.)

 

you'll find guys here using diesel oils also - which is a great option

Yup ! Rotella or similar DIESEL OIL in my bike - better than car oil........
As Naga_Thai (Hi Martin) says for the rest.

 

Thanks Naga_Thai. Great post but I've got yo be honest and confess that I've bought the castrol. I'll try it for a while. At least its motorcycle oil !

Yep, its great here. There's so much help. I've been slowly getting the CBR back togther over the last 4years ( Boy, do I work slow ) and thats not a total rebuild ! But hey, we're there. Looking forward to enjoying the rest of the summer and its over far to quick in the UK !

Now lets hope the oil is the only reason that I get clutch slip. Seems Odd there's no adjustment



mikey

 

Also if you have too much oil it will slip and no work correctly either.

 

There shouldn't be any 'play' between the clutch lever (throw-out bushing to pushrod to the Clutch Master Cylinder piston.
The Throw-out Brass Bushing and Clutch Lever Pivot Bushing are probably worn from lack of lubrication.
Replace them both. Inspect the Pivot Bolt for wear too: use Bel-Ray Marine Waterproof grease on the Pivot bushing, Throw-out Bushing and Pushrod ends/o-ring guide sparingly. Re-lube about every 6 months.

Keep the old lever and bushing as an Emergency Roadside Spare if you have the misfortune of ever breaking the new one.

 

Quick question. I've bled the old clutch fluid out but I let some air in at the reservoir .Nothing else disconnected . Is there any quick way of getting rid of it . I've been bleeding it through with the new fluid for ages now. The new fluid is coming through now. I pump the clutch lever 5 times, hold in and then turn the caliper bleed nipple 1/4 turn , let the fluid out. Tighten nipple , then let the lever go and start the process again. Is there a quicker method? seems like I'm forever fighting rising air bubbles.

I thought about removing the clutch caliper and unclipping the hose that runs up the side of the frame, and getting it high so the bubbles rise. But will the caliper come away without draining the engine oil ?

I feel like a right idiot. Oh well its all about the learning experience

Comments welcome
Cheers