Hello again all. Three questions if I may - and apologies in advance for rambling on...

1. Choke
After replacing the camchain tensioner, I have the following issue: I use full choke to start the bike from cold, as I always have. But now she's very hesitant, and for the first few minutes she will die unless I give her extra throttle. After these few minutes (still not warmed up) the choke starts to work OK.
I've reseated the choke cable in its clamp to try and get rid of slack. And I don't think it's temperature-related as the choke used to work fine even in mid-winter. One thing - after replacing the CCT I had to turn the idle screw clockwise a bit as idle had dropped to 900 when warm.

2. Idle
Once she's warmed up she runs OK, idles at 1100-ish, and has now survived three 18-mile commutes. However today she cut out at the traffic lights when I didn't give her quite enough throttle. The engine was hot and the fan was running. I pressed the starter but it sounded like the battery was struggling. I wheeled her to the side of the road, tried again, and after a few 'almost started' moments she did fire up. And she felt much smoother all of a sudden!

3. Electrics
Recently I put the bike's original reg/rec back in after my newer one blew. Now I see the neutral light getting brighter and dimmer when idling, ditto for the tail light, and the headlamp brightens considerably when the revs get above idle. Are these the signs of a healthy electrical system?

Thanks, as ever.

 

Me : I'd check and reset your pilot needles - do a carb sync setting you idle at 1250.
Drain the bowls as an extra step in case there's any moisture

If the R/R is doubtful or the battery getting old - change them

my 2c's if I had those issues - kinda of a package deal

 

Thanks Sprock.
Trouble is I wouldn't know a pilot needle or bowl if it smacked me in the face. Never looked at carbs before and don't have the right tools to sync.
They look fiddly and more complicated than the CCT replacement I've just done.
Or am I being chicken? Is there a how-to on this? Suppose I should look before asking...
Thanks,
H

 

hello there,
I used to have an electrical problem somewhat like yours, but my bike would die. I found the R/R was getting too hot and did not convert/rectify any electricity and bike will shut off and wouldn't start until it cool off. Bought a R/R no more problems.
I do still see the problem with the light dimming. Someone told me there may be a short somewhere...exactly the problem somewhere doesn't help me nor i know anything about electricity but just be careful with it.

i have my carbs out right now. I will take a pic of both and post here so you know which one they are. It's not difficult but time consuming. This is my first time i do a carb cleaning. The guys in here help a lot. You can see my thread in which i get great advises from Sprock and Hawkwind about my carb oddyssey. Here is a link to it: https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-1000f...-choke-146712/

 

Thanks jlpinedas,
I'll take a look at your 'odyssey' and plan some time to look at my carbs.
Might also remove the K&N filter and put the original one back in.

 

Hi there,
I'm sorry haven't gotten back to you. Here are some links
Carb Sync tools
This is used to measure your idle. It will indicate which needs to be adjusted.

Air Pilot Tool
This is to move the pilot around
Carb Tool 90 Degree w/Bits | Motion Pro

Carb Sync video link

If you have questions just let us know. You wouldn't have to remove the float bowl to do a sync.