Cbr1000f-h '87
#11
03-13-2015, 04:54 AM
Welcome Crew
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: newbury u.k
Posts: 1,830
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
for parts in the uk
david silver holds a few, lings Honda keep a fair bit they also have a parts micro physce (that is probably the wrong spelling), but as we live in the uk the parts are quite exspensive, I have shipped them from the states and saved money ( bike bandit and partzilla), if your doing carbs I would recommend nrp for bits.
david silver holds a few, lings Honda keep a fair bit they also have a parts micro physce (that is probably the wrong spelling), but as we live in the uk the parts are quite exspensive, I have shipped them from the states and saved money ( bike bandit and partzilla), if your doing carbs I would recommend nrp for bits.
#12
03-13-2015, 05:42 AM
Super Moderator
.
In 2011 & 2012 I spent a month with relations over the Christmas-New Year period in the Adelaide Hills. Fabulous scenery and some great motorcycling roads. There seemed to be quite a lot of bikes in use. I spoke to a small group on bikes having lunch at a café. They told me they usually meet up early for a ride and stop for lunch around midday as it gets a bit too hot later. It was in the high 30's when I was there. Phew! Definitely not used to those temperatures.
A friend arranged for me to take part in a charity toy run. There were hundreds and hundreds of bikes. A great day out.
In 2011 & 2012 I spent a month with relations over the Christmas-New Year period in the Adelaide Hills. Fabulous scenery and some great motorcycling roads. There seemed to be quite a lot of bikes in use. I spoke to a small group on bikes having lunch at a café. They told me they usually meet up early for a ride and stop for lunch around midday as it gets a bit too hot later. It was in the high 30's when I was there. Phew! Definitely not used to those temperatures.
A friend arranged for me to take part in a charity toy run. There were hundreds and hundreds of bikes. A great day out.
Cheers, SB
#13
03-17-2015, 04:05 AM
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Hinckley, Leicestershire UK
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've been checking through lots of things on the CBR1000F-H.
Valve clearances didn't really need adjusting but while you have the lid off you might as well put them to spec.
Carbs pretty well balanced, only a little tweak on the adjuster on a couple of them.
Put new spark plugs in. Iridium plugs were more expensive but should not need touching again for a long time.
Cam chain looks good and doesn't seem noisy. Maybe it has been renewed at sometime although I can't find mention of it in some or the more recent maintenance bills that came with the bike.
The shock absorber was lacking in damping. It was a unit off a "K" onwards bike so I sent it to be rebuilt. The diaphragm wasn't serviceable and as there are no spares for this it could not be rebuilt. I bought a new YSS unit as this was the least expensive option. Seems to be quite a good shock. The down side is that it doesn't have the easy adjustment of the original unit. The pre-load adjustment is by ring and tommy bar which is a real pain to get at. I've found an old "C" spanner and welded a peg on it to make the job a little easier.
The fork oil has been changed and I've put around 4 psi air in the forks which seem to ride OK. Might try experimenting with the pressure dropping/increasing by 1 psi at a time to see if that is an improvement.
The front brakes were awful with lots of juddering in use and dragging a little when released. On removing the pistons I found there was a build up of crud behind the dust seals. Cleaning that out fixed the dragging. I checked the discs and they didn't seem to be warped. I put some new pads in and that has got rid of virtually all the juddering. The old pads looked to be OK so I can only assume that they were contaminated with oil or just the wrong material.
I am 6' - 2" tall and past the first flush of youth so I found that my knees were right up to the top of the cut away in the petrol tank and it seemed a long way to lift my leg up to the foot rests. I tried a quick/cheap fix by making some adapter plates from some bits of Dural I had lying about, These drop the footrest around an inch (25 mm). (Pics attached.) I had to make a few spacers to go in the footrest brackets to keep the rest to brake/gear lever distance correct. This was intended to be a prototype setup to see what worked but now looks like being the finished item as it is definitely more comfortable for me. I've also raised the handlebars up on the fork legs which has also give me a better position. I looked at what was available to lift the bars but they all looked too expensive for not much gain and the limit is governed by the clearance between the control master cylinder reservoirs and the fairing.
I think that is enough for now as you will be getting bored. More next time.
Valve clearances didn't really need adjusting but while you have the lid off you might as well put them to spec.
Carbs pretty well balanced, only a little tweak on the adjuster on a couple of them.
Put new spark plugs in. Iridium plugs were more expensive but should not need touching again for a long time.
Cam chain looks good and doesn't seem noisy. Maybe it has been renewed at sometime although I can't find mention of it in some or the more recent maintenance bills that came with the bike.
The shock absorber was lacking in damping. It was a unit off a "K" onwards bike so I sent it to be rebuilt. The diaphragm wasn't serviceable and as there are no spares for this it could not be rebuilt. I bought a new YSS unit as this was the least expensive option. Seems to be quite a good shock. The down side is that it doesn't have the easy adjustment of the original unit. The pre-load adjustment is by ring and tommy bar which is a real pain to get at. I've found an old "C" spanner and welded a peg on it to make the job a little easier.
The fork oil has been changed and I've put around 4 psi air in the forks which seem to ride OK. Might try experimenting with the pressure dropping/increasing by 1 psi at a time to see if that is an improvement.
The front brakes were awful with lots of juddering in use and dragging a little when released. On removing the pistons I found there was a build up of crud behind the dust seals. Cleaning that out fixed the dragging. I checked the discs and they didn't seem to be warped. I put some new pads in and that has got rid of virtually all the juddering. The old pads looked to be OK so I can only assume that they were contaminated with oil or just the wrong material.
I am 6' - 2" tall and past the first flush of youth so I found that my knees were right up to the top of the cut away in the petrol tank and it seemed a long way to lift my leg up to the foot rests. I tried a quick/cheap fix by making some adapter plates from some bits of Dural I had lying about, These drop the footrest around an inch (25 mm). (Pics attached.) I had to make a few spacers to go in the footrest brackets to keep the rest to brake/gear lever distance correct. This was intended to be a prototype setup to see what worked but now looks like being the finished item as it is definitely more comfortable for me. I've also raised the handlebars up on the fork legs which has also give me a better position. I looked at what was available to lift the bars but they all looked too expensive for not much gain and the limit is governed by the clearance between the control master cylinder reservoirs and the fairing.
I think that is enough for now as you will be getting bored. More next time.
Last edited by Ed Grew; 03-19-2015 at 02:29 PM.
#14
03-18-2015, 12:01 AM
#15
03-18-2015, 05:47 PM
#16
03-18-2015, 06:23 PM
Yeah had the VFR 41mm bars on mine for a bit but took them off and went
with DanMoto 3D Riser Bars but had to do some hardware (nut and bolt upgrades)
to make them safe as the milled Chinese alum tends to be soft ! but still a good/better
upgrade than vfr bars imo, funny they only seems to have them in black at the moment
and a slightly redesigned version than mine - maybe they had to make them a bit better
quality than the ones I got
https://www.dan-moto.com/DM_US/41mm-...jiv5dis00q27h0
with DanMoto 3D Riser Bars but had to do some hardware (nut and bolt upgrades)
to make them safe as the milled Chinese alum tends to be soft ! but still a good/better
upgrade than vfr bars imo, funny they only seems to have them in black at the moment
and a slightly redesigned version than mine - maybe they had to make them a bit better
quality than the ones I got
https://www.dan-moto.com/DM_US/41mm-...jiv5dis00q27h0
#17
03-19-2015, 04:14 PM
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Hinckley, Leicestershire UK
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've had a go at fixing some of the broken lugs on the main lower fairing panels. Some of the broken lugs were still attached to the belly panels so I took them off and thought I'd have a go at welding them back onto the fairing panel. I cleaned the bits up with some methylated spirit to remove any oil, etc and using the end of an electric soldering iron put a couple of "tacks" on to hold the bits in place. After checking the alignment I ran the iron into the joint to melt deeper into the plastic and also added some more plastic using some thin ABS plastic rods I found on ebay. It seems to have been successful and I was quite surprised how relatively easy it was to do. I'd recommend anyone with similar fairing problems to have a go at doing a bit of plastic welding.
I've attached a couple of pics, one with the broken bits lying near where they about to be re-affixed and the other picture with them welded in place.
I've attached a couple of pics, one with the broken bits lying near where they about to be re-affixed and the other picture with them welded in place.
#18
03-19-2015, 04:55 PM
#19
03-20-2015, 03:46 AM
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Hinckley, Leicestershire UK
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This CBR1000F-H has been "fitted" with stainless down pipes and Motad Nexus silencers. The fitted is in quotes because they have really been bodged on. The silencer pipes have been welded into the bifurcated pipes after the collector box. The welding is not pretty! (It looks like birds have roosted there and something or someone has dumped a load of bird crap.
) I see removing the system as being difficult without the use of a hacksaw. On the plus side the exhaust doesn't need to come off yet and the exhaust note is quite pleasant and not too loud.
Question: Is it necessary to lift the needles in the carbs for the Nexus silencers? There is one thin washer under the needles at the moment and it seems to run OK.
) I see removing the system as being difficult without the use of a hacksaw. On the plus side the exhaust doesn't need to come off yet and the exhaust note is quite pleasant and not too loud.Question: Is it necessary to lift the needles in the carbs for the Nexus silencers? There is one thin washer under the needles at the moment and it seems to run OK.