CBR1000F camshafts regrind
#1
CBR1000F camshafts regrind
Hi all,
I'm considering purchasing a pair of 1000F camshafts as a performance upgrade for my CB1300SF.
Under the assumption that they will fit, does anyone know if they can be reground/reprofiled for better performance (=hp)? Are there any specialists out there how know these engines and have tweaked them?
I know Megacycle don't list them...
Thanks
Manos
I'm considering purchasing a pair of 1000F camshafts as a performance upgrade for my CB1300SF.
Under the assumption that they will fit, does anyone know if they can be reground/reprofiled for better performance (=hp)? Are there any specialists out there how know these engines and have tweaked them?
I know Megacycle don't list them...
Thanks
Manos
#2
Are the 1000F and CB1300SF camshafts interchangeable ?
I don't know the profiles for the std SF camshafts, so it's hard to tell.
I'd just resprocket the bike to give it more low end..........quick and cheap
Maybe Yoshimura can tell you.....
http://www.yoshimura-jp.com/en/produ..._sb/index.html
I don't know the profiles for the std SF camshafts, so it's hard to tell.
I'd just resprocket the bike to give it more low end..........quick and cheap
Maybe Yoshimura can tell you.....
http://www.yoshimura-jp.com/en/produ..._sb/index.html
#3
It'd be pretty lucky if they did fit. In any case, nothing's for free and you might loose some bottom end power. There's a mob called Magnum Tuning that makes an adjustable chip for those bikes. They claim 25hp gains. I'd be looking at free flowing exhausts power commanders and all the other good stuff you can do with fuel injected bikes. Turbo anyone. I quite like those big naked bikes...maybe when I grow up
#4
Thanks for the responses.
Quite frankly, I’m not entirely sure either. The CB1300 engine has been derived from the CB1000 engine, which was a de-tuned version of the CBR-F engine. In its time, CB1000 riders would swap the 18’’ wheels for 17’’, fit a cylinder head, cams etc from the 1000F and go racing. My thoughts are along the same line.
The good news are that used 1000F parts are on the cheap side, or at least priced at amounts I’m prepared to risk buying.
The bad news is that the 1000F engine is tilted forward on the frame and therefore I can’t use its carburettors (38mm vs. 36mm but downdraft vs. sidedraft) – I just realized that today in fact...
Resprocketing the bike is not required. It’s strong enough as it is (stronger, in fact, than it needs to be) and can accelerate fast from any speed in any gear. (I, too, ask myself why I want to do the mod then...When I know, I’ll tell...)
Yoshimura has told me. They have two cams for my bike, Standard (whatever that means) and Stage 2, BUT they are extremely expensive (and I can be very cheap at times…)
With 1300cc’s and such a long stroke, I doubt any bottom end loss will be noticeable. My main concern would only be over-revving the engine. The rev limiter now is at 9500 rpm – where the 1000F produces its maximum power. To take full advantage of the mod, I’d also have to fit the F’s CDI and things will then start getting very dangerous, very fast.
One thing I haven’t mentioned is that my bike is the 1st generation 1300, the one with carburettors. I’m a bit old school; I don’t like fuel injection very much. The point is that chip tuning and PCs are not applicable to my case.
A free flowing exhaust I do have already. Word has it that it was the best available for the bike, it certainly cost as much, It is a full Ti “Baby Face”, later to be known as Sato Racing (but I didn't search for a Moriwaki at the time).
Paired with a K&N filter and jetted on a dyno, it helped the engine develop 115hp at the rear wheel. It also lightened the bike by what felt like 20-25kgs.
Not bad, I say...
Manos
Quite frankly, I’m not entirely sure either. The CB1300 engine has been derived from the CB1000 engine, which was a de-tuned version of the CBR-F engine. In its time, CB1000 riders would swap the 18’’ wheels for 17’’, fit a cylinder head, cams etc from the 1000F and go racing. My thoughts are along the same line.
The good news are that used 1000F parts are on the cheap side, or at least priced at amounts I’m prepared to risk buying.
The bad news is that the 1000F engine is tilted forward on the frame and therefore I can’t use its carburettors (38mm vs. 36mm but downdraft vs. sidedraft) – I just realized that today in fact...
Resprocketing the bike is not required. It’s strong enough as it is (stronger, in fact, than it needs to be) and can accelerate fast from any speed in any gear. (I, too, ask myself why I want to do the mod then...When I know, I’ll tell...)
Yoshimura has told me. They have two cams for my bike, Standard (whatever that means) and Stage 2, BUT they are extremely expensive (and I can be very cheap at times…)
It'd be pretty lucky if they did fit. In any case, nothing's for free and you might loose some bottom end power. There's a mob called Magnum Tuning that makes an adjustable chip for those bikes. They claim 25hp gains. I'd be looking at free flowing exhausts power commanders and all the other good stuff you can do with fuel injected bikes. Turbo anyone. I quite like those big naked bikes...maybe when I grow up
With 1300cc’s and such a long stroke, I doubt any bottom end loss will be noticeable. My main concern would only be over-revving the engine. The rev limiter now is at 9500 rpm – where the 1000F produces its maximum power. To take full advantage of the mod, I’d also have to fit the F’s CDI and things will then start getting very dangerous, very fast.
One thing I haven’t mentioned is that my bike is the 1st generation 1300, the one with carburettors. I’m a bit old school; I don’t like fuel injection very much. The point is that chip tuning and PCs are not applicable to my case.
A free flowing exhaust I do have already. Word has it that it was the best available for the bike, it certainly cost as much, It is a full Ti “Baby Face”, later to be known as Sato Racing (but I didn't search for a Moriwaki at the time).
Paired with a K&N filter and jetted on a dyno, it helped the engine develop 115hp at the rear wheel. It also lightened the bike by what felt like 20-25kgs.
Not bad, I say...
Manos
#5
Sounds like you've got it pretty sussed out mate. I didn't realise you were on carbies. that rules out a lot of easy mods...and probably the turbo. A big lazy motor (just saying it isn't working real hard) like that would be a wild thing with a bit of a 'boost'. Big bucks though
"(I, too, ask myself why I want to do the mod then...When I know, I’ll tell...)" haha. who really needs a reason??
I'd say you're just going to have to do some serious homework and maybe a trip to a friendly wrecker with a set of digital Vernier calipers in your back pocket. If you set up a head with the camshafts resting in it you would be able to get a better idea of what's going on with regards to lift and duration. A dial guage and a few hours of head scratching...probably a headache too. I'd start by just measuring both at a wrecker. At least you'll know whether it's worth persuing. Good luck with it.
"(I, too, ask myself why I want to do the mod then...When I know, I’ll tell...)" haha. who really needs a reason??
I'd say you're just going to have to do some serious homework and maybe a trip to a friendly wrecker with a set of digital Vernier calipers in your back pocket. If you set up a head with the camshafts resting in it you would be able to get a better idea of what's going on with regards to lift and duration. A dial guage and a few hours of head scratching...probably a headache too. I'd start by just measuring both at a wrecker. At least you'll know whether it's worth persuing. Good luck with it.
#7
The turbo might be a pain due to carbies, but nitrous . I think I saw a kit advertised for one of those on the 'net recently. They're illegal for road use here so you'd have to hide it, er I mean, not use it on the road...much. Wouldn't that **** the gixer riders ? .
#8
Oh aye, the bike is on carbs. I don’t see how that rules out turbos or nitrous though. I don’t like either however. A turbo is too easy and too expensive. You pretty much plug it on and play (and pay). Nitrous doesn’t last long, you need to mess with the gearing and it’s also plug and play. OK, neither is exactly plug and play, but they certainly don’t involve so much head scratching or tickle the mind as trying to find out what fits on what and how...
Plus I get a better kick out of modding a normally aspirated engine. The numbers I get are a direct function of my efforts, rather that raising the boost a bit, or pressing the button a little sooner.
If you ride a bike on FCRs, especially after having riden it with regular vacuum carbs, you’ll think the bike is on nitrous, turbo, has no flywheel and burns gunpower instead of petrol. They certainly feel the part and can carve a permanent idiot’s smile on your face!
The easiest way of knowing if something fits on something else is the “gasket test”. In my case, I can get a head gasket for my bike and one for an F. If they are the same, or similar, if the head bolts are in the same place and the holes for the cylinders have the same (or similar) centers, then in all probability the heads will be interchangeable. The point is that if I can fit the entire head on my cylinder block and drive the cams, I don’t need to worry about the F’s cams, alone, fitting on my head. It’s a very good start and quite reliable (and cheap too).
Then, I’ll have to measure the volume of the new combustion chambers (ideally mine as well) and see how I can play about with the compression ratio.
Then start playing with cam profiles, porting the head and fitting bigger valves (if I can find them this side of the Pacific). One thing to be careful about is to ensure that the exhaust cam profile (its duration, actually) “agrees” with my exhaust headers as I wouldn’t want to change them. There is however some room for modification there as well.
I do believe that the best part of toy-wrenching is the mental one, the mind tickling, head scratching and planning and designing which things can work together and how.
My point exactly. Boys with toys...
Speaking of turbos, check the attached (although the pink one is not exactly to my taste...)
M.
Plus I get a better kick out of modding a normally aspirated engine. The numbers I get are a direct function of my efforts, rather that raising the boost a bit, or pressing the button a little sooner.
If you ride a bike on FCRs, especially after having riden it with regular vacuum carbs, you’ll think the bike is on nitrous, turbo, has no flywheel and burns gunpower instead of petrol. They certainly feel the part and can carve a permanent idiot’s smile on your face!
The easiest way of knowing if something fits on something else is the “gasket test”. In my case, I can get a head gasket for my bike and one for an F. If they are the same, or similar, if the head bolts are in the same place and the holes for the cylinders have the same (or similar) centers, then in all probability the heads will be interchangeable. The point is that if I can fit the entire head on my cylinder block and drive the cams, I don’t need to worry about the F’s cams, alone, fitting on my head. It’s a very good start and quite reliable (and cheap too).
Then, I’ll have to measure the volume of the new combustion chambers (ideally mine as well) and see how I can play about with the compression ratio.
Then start playing with cam profiles, porting the head and fitting bigger valves (if I can find them this side of the Pacific). One thing to be careful about is to ensure that the exhaust cam profile (its duration, actually) “agrees” with my exhaust headers as I wouldn’t want to change them. There is however some room for modification there as well.
I do believe that the best part of toy-wrenching is the mental one, the mind tickling, head scratching and planning and designing which things can work together and how.
My point exactly. Boys with toys...
Speaking of turbos, check the attached (although the pink one is not exactly to my taste...)
M.
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