Hi Druncle,

Im about to put another alt shaft in after doing the damper job, long story... Bad cross thread repair by previous owner!!!

Do you have a pic of the spoke you used so I can get the angle of the bend???

Cheers and thanks in advance..

 

Are you talking about me?

Coz i talk only what i have done and i have uninstalled and installed the alternator twice on 1989-1992 CBR 1000F and my friend have also done it twice on his 93 bike and we have managed to get it back in with no problems whatsoever.
Somehow i find it hard to believe that there can be 2 bikes which starter chain tensioners aren't working properly.
Actually if the tensioner aren't working there should be noises when the engine is running - but i havent noticed anything.

 

I think you may need to be a little more specific about advice from people who you claim don't know what they're talking about.
Frinstance ?
The intention here is to provide answers to questions - when the questions are vague, like 'what's wrong with my bike' and some symptoms, you'll get a shopping list of suggestions, some of which may be wrong in that instance, but generally the guys are attempting to give answers from thousands of miles away, to fix a bike they've never seen, for a member they wouldn't know if he bumped into them on the street.Answers are based on experience in the main, having done the job, or seen it explained, hence the pointing out places/posts which may be useful in a particular instance.
I think the comment was a bit harsh, and needs some clarification.......if you please......

 

Okay Shadow/Kaska,no offence intended, that part of my post was copied from the original I posted when I had managed to get the alternator back in, and was fuelled by more than a little frustration at following advice which was unhelpful, and after doing the job myself, unlikely to work...
Kaska... the point I was making was this; the alternator/starter chain has a tensioner on it.

Youve done this job?- so you will know that with the usual compliment of hands, at some point that chain will slacken slightly when you remove the alternator, educate me here if Im wrong.
any slack on this chain, and the tensioner will tighten it up.
Once that chain has tightened up you wont get the alternator shaft back in.- unless UK models have different tensioning devices to those you fellers get in SA (they've got a ratchet on them here, and once tightened will not release), unless you can de-activate that tensioner (or the tensioner is fecked), that alternator can not go in. Maybe there are different setups around; maybe not, all I know is that when someone sticks up a post pertaining to having done a job on the bike in a certain way that has been successful, when there is no way it should work, I have my doubts as to wether they really have done the job, have just looked at engine diagrams and tried to make helpful suggestions, or there are differences in the bikes components which is a possibility.
And Shadow, I value these forums as invaluable places to share ideas, but anyone who understands basic engineering principles as Im sure you do, Is likely to have recognised these posts....

Bazman,Naga, the spoke idea was borne out of sheer desperation, but worked. If the tensioner tensions, (on a uk bike -!!!!??) you wont get things back together. The spring loaded pawl on the tensioner has a hole above it down which a thin rod can be pushed to release that pawl. I inserted the spoke thro the hole in the crankcase where the starter goes, down in front (I think) of where the alternator shaft goes, and felt around on the tensioner body for the hole. This is fiddly and took a while to get the wire spoke bent & positioned right, but unless Im totally deranged, on my bike certainly, there would be no other way to do this job without splitting the engine (again- no fekin way!).
Sorry, no photos, I was on my own on the day, and before I realised this way would work, it was all back together. Its quite simple, once youve twigged it..

 

Thanks for the response........(I quote)
And Shadow, I value these forums as invaluable places to share ideas, but anyone who understands basic engineering principles as Im sure you do, Is likely to have recognised these posts....
I do recognise advice which is suspect, but must confess that on this specific(Hurricane) section I've not known anyone to give advice which is not sound, or not based on their own personal experience. Sometimes the descriptions are not grammmatically correct, as we're not all English speaking...................Kaska's from Estonia, his English is a damned sight better than my Estonian - yours too, I bet ! Luis and Daniel speak Spanish, and CBRClassic speaks Australian, so if you didn't understand him, I'd understand - none of us do, either, but I think you get my point.
'unless UK models have different tensioning devices to those you fellers get in SA (they've got a ratchet on them here, and once tightened will not release)'
I think maybe you've got the bull by the tail here - I have never ever said I've removed the complete stator, only the cover, (My old stator cover's in Kaspar's bike in Estonia, BTW) so the reference to different tensioners in SA is inaccurate. My bike's a California model, and none were assembled here ever, so how they would have a different tensioning device is beyond me......Your comments as to other members' contributions I will leave to the good offices of others.
It's not my wish or intention to cross swords with anyone on this Forum, but when you've spent as much time as some of us have attempting to help people, and being helped in return,you can surely see why your remarks could not be allowed to stand without rebuttal.
Perhaps when you've been around awhile, you'll understand us a bit better..........

 

Well Shadow, if you were refering to just changing the cover, and not the whole deal, then I reckon I mis-interpreted the thread, so you can put your sword down, and if you come over to the UK, I might even change yer starter damper for you.
ride safe
druncs

 

Hi druncle,

I don't even know where to start again.
Yes I have done the job! - You can watch the pictures as evidence if you would like and if you want i can provide the originals also. As my other profession is photographer then i have the illness to take pictures always i do something.

I quote: the point I was making was this; the alternator/starter chain has a tensioner on it.

Answer: Of course there is a teinsioner. Every chain driven mechanism must have a tensioner or at least a ability to adjust the tension - Maybe i took it too obviously, but i have told you that there is a tensioner in that thread https://cbrforum.com/m_382825/mpage_2/key_/tm.htm so it could not come to you as a supprise.

Again Quote: Youve done this job?- so you will know that with the usual compliment of hands, at some point that chain will slacken slightly when you remove the alternator, educate me here if Im wrong.
any slack on this chain, and the tensioner will tighten it up.

Answer: Again you are right here as the tensioner is spring loaded and spring loaded things have custom to tighten up if there is no response on them.
And again i told you on the same thread that with swedish army knife and with 10 fingers you can strech the chain back on. I have done it twice, my freind has done it twice and if you want i can do it again in winter if i have time.

And now the geography As you can see on my user avatar, or wahatever you call it, i live in Tallinn, Estonia. Now Estonia is nowhere close to SA, actually it is in European , but thats not the point now. The point is that i have UK model CBR and my freind also have UK model - we both have had hard times driving with Mph speedos in here - SO the mechanics in our bikes are most definately the same. As you know the US model cover even fitted to UK model - and it was ecactly the same like - As i am studing in university to became a Mechanical Engineer i know pretty much about mechanics production - and there is really no point of making the production lines more complex to make different models to different locations - the us californian model only had the secondary fuel burning device installed as i remember.

Now as i have done this job. And suceeded both times. And as my freind have done it and his bike is running great ( actually he sold it this summer i took liberty to think that with some time and with good patience pretty much everyone could do it so i post here that it could be done without stripping the engine.
I do not think myself as a very gifted handyman but i did it so i think others can do it also

So there have always been people who take their bikes to shop to change oil, sparks, whatever - if anybody who is that kind of guy and read about that method and thought that it could be good idea to have a first look inside canes belly - DO NOT DO IT!
But most bikerriders fixes their bikes themselves and for them i think it is not very difficult job.

 

....ohmigod, losing the will to live here,
nite nite all

 

John,

Thank you for the excellent reply,
I will try your method as i have had the tensioneer out and reckon i'll have a go without splitting again.
How do i know if the damper is worn???????
and how does this effect the starting? its the workings of this damper i just cant get my head around?

I think i need some of that brown ale soon

Regards

Conor

 

Appreciate the offer, Druncle, but with all the detail that's been provided here by Kaspar, Bazman and yourself, I think if it comes up I'll have a go at it myself.