Hi Folks!!

Had Worn outish motor with starter damper problems, so luckily i came accross a motor which only had 1,400kms on it apparently!
Only problem is that new motor was missing the Complete Altenator assembly.
Not an issue i thought, i'll just transfer my old one over?
Removing was not an issue, removed cover, opened bolts and nut under the starting motor, slid out real easy.
NOW I CANNOT GET IT TO ALLIGN STRAIGHT INTO NEW MOTOR,
What am I doing wrong
Has anyone fitted this before? I see KASKA refitted a starter clutch before without splitting.
Its seems the tensioner for the alternator/stater chain needs to be slackened off to take the pressure off as its pulling the shaft out of line where it meets bearing in crankcase undeer starter motor.
i really dont want to get into splitting crankases, both engines are identical FL's.

Yours,

Conor998
Ireland

 

Kaska's the only guy I know who has done this, without splitting the casings. His post has pictures. Send him a PM. He's in the military ATM so may take a few days.
I looked it up for you - here's a copy of what Kaska said (Hi Kaspar)
Yes the alternator is removed on this picture.
All the pics from job are there http://www.zone.ee/kaspar10/CBR/index.htm
You can see removed alternator http://www.zone.ee/kaspar10/CBR/pages/IMG_6309.htm
There you can see the dumper itself http://www.zone.ee/kaspar10/CBR/pages/IMG_6288.htm is also taken out from engine.
And chain is fixed with wire http://www.zone.ee/kaspar10/CBR/pages/IMG_6281.htm

Now about changing the chain tensioners - If you have VERY good fingers it MAY be doable, but there is really not so much room and the tensioners are pretty big. So i would suggest to open the engine for this job.
But first you should make sure that the rattling noise is not coming from cam chain. The cam chain tensioner is place where hurricanes make noise usually. and the cam chain tensioner is much easier to replace - again with engine in frame and most fairings on.

< Message edited by kaska 9/28/2008 10:21:48 AM >

 

Thanks for the reply,

I have studied these pics several times, all this is clear to me.

I just need to take the slack off the chain.

How do i get to the adjuster???

Cheers

Conor

 

To avoid problems the first thing you should do is check the clutches in the starter clutch, and do as Kaska suggests, THEN, send him a PM and ask him about the rest. I can only help you this far....

 

Hi Folks!!!

Back from duty to civilization

I can see where you have problem, but i don't remember that to be impassable. I write here how i would do it and if you still have problems feel free to send PM or write here and we will work it out

Well as Shadow has already told you you should first inspect the alternator assembly for the starter clutch wear and definitely the damper wear, and probably change there the order of the plates to gain some more friction.The plates and damper - http://web.zone.ee/kaspar10/CBR/pages/IMG_6300.htm

About the align. as you see on the picture http://web.zone.ee/kaspar10/CBR/pages/IMG_6263.htm . I don't know how tight the tensioner is for your engine, but it is doable. I remember having some difficulties also but i put the damper first in as you see in picture - the chain is installed with Swedish army knife but you can use even a screwdriver just to slide the chain over the sprocet and at the same time try to tension the chain with other hand or probably there you will need a buddy

So when you got the damper in then you put the rest of the alternator in and then you must carefully look that you will align the shaft ( http://web.zone.ee/kaspar10/CBR/pages/IMG_6309.htm - on the right ) so that will go into the bearing - you can help it with finger via the upper hatch http://web.zone.ee/kaspar10/CBR/pages/IMG_6250.htm Just put the bolt on then you can adjust it better with fingers.


Well then i just used some force to get the alternator straight. Added with some kicks with wooden hammer.

I must remind you not to overtighten the bolts on alternator cover!!! ... Pete knows why

 

Kaspar to the rescue !!
I was hoping you would visit the forum !!
Good to see you again.

 

Hi Pete!
i check the forum as often i can, but not every time i have time to post responds

Always good to see all of you guys

 

hi guys,

Ended up turning engine upside down and splitting crankcases. released tensioner and fitted alternater. All good.
When i fitted the new motor to the bike i still have the same problem with motor turning over too slow when hot????
The motor has 1,400kms only on it so it cant be the damper? I have went through everthing else at this stage 10 times over.
Even if i put a truck battery direct to the stater motor same thing happens.
What are the sympthoms of the starter clutch(sprag bearing) been worn? in my past experience it just stops the starter motor engaging, is it different on these cbr's?
Only thing i can think of is that someone took the damper out of this engine when it was lying up and put an old one in to stop the chain falling down, the alternater was removed when i got the engine.

How do you check the damper for wear????

Now that i've seen the workings of the starter chain tensioner i reckon i can release it without splitting again.

yours

Conor998

 

Hi Connor; you have my sympathies-I was in your position a year or so ago; I ended up splitting the engine to replace the starting damper, however it looked fine. Like a berk I replaced everything, put engine back in bike, and for a couple of days all was fine then... starting sluggish again. Once I had got over a period of self loathing, I decided to follow advice on this and similar forums out of desperation and not wanting to split engine, and ended up where you are with an alternator not going back into the engine.... the starter chain tensioner had done its job, -as of course it would!!
Swearing never to consult a forum on such matters again, I tried to remember what the chain tensioner looked like , and if I could disengage it from outside the engine.
Hence this post I submitted 20000 miles ago...**** optional

As an addition......one problem with replacing the damper/ starter clutch is that tension on the alternator chain will inevitably be reduced as the alt shaft is withdrawn. CBR1000f's have a spring loaded tensioner on this chain, and guess what....if it is working properly, youll find that when reassembling, the chain is now too tight to get the shaft back in place properly. ( there is a lot of useful help on this forum, and also a lot of advice which can be time wasting and expensive if followed, I imagine because the authors dont know what theyre talking about...BEWARE!!- ive been there; especially on this very topic!)sooo.. You can [/u]do this job with engine in frame- take off carbs/ airbox/ starter, undo alternator nut, remove alternator shaft. Hook piece of wire round chain to stop it dropping....Dont bother lieing the bike down (!!!???) Theres a tang off the alt chain tensioner in the way; bend it down out the way. The damper should now eventually come out... this is fiddly! have patience! Have cup of tea and ***. The tensioner will (should have) automatically have tensioned the chain... If you look at it down the alternator aperture, youll see a spring loaded plunger.. the ratchet on this needs to be disengaged... have second ***. I got a 6" length of bicycle spoke, and found that if bent to the correct shape, it could enter the engine via the starter motor hole, and go down to where the teeth on the ratchet are. next to these teeth, you can push the spoke thro a hole, at the same time disengaging the ratchet. At this point leave the spoke in situ. Damper replaced , chain put over it, tang bent back, safety wire round chain removed. Alt shaft & alternator replaced. Now the magic bit!! the bicycle spoke can be withdrawn thro the starter hole, allowing the tensioner to do its job again. Reassemble everything else. Have crate of Newky Brown. This is the result of a very long day yesterday, when I tried to do the job as advised, and found that there was no way to do it, if the tensioner was working!!! Maybe some cbr1000s dont have this tensioner, but I have my doubts! Its not a difficult job but it is a bit fiddly. Take your time, dont start hitting things with hammers, and itll be ok. If anyone has any pics of the tensioner; I'd have found them very useful, and so would anyone else doing the job. Have Fun, John.
And yes, it does work.

 

Hi druncle

I've been lurking on this thread for some time (in fear that it might happen to me one day!).
I just read your detailed reply above and then took the time to read your other informative posts.
A personal "Thank you" for taking the time to give such clear, detailed posts - working from personal experience and facts. Very helpful.