CBR 1000F "Hurricane" 1987-1996 CBR 1000F

Cam chain slider

  #1  
Old 05-05-2013, 03:31 PM
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Default Cam chain slider

Finally got round to having a go at replacing the cam chain tensioner.

I've removed everything including the cams but would like to replace the cam chain slider (the one at the front of the engine). Manual says it's part of the cylinder head removal and Haynes agrees.

Has anyone managed to get it out after removing the cams? Looks like it's an interference fit so could it just be yanked out?

It has nice parallel marks on it (from the cam chain I presume) but if it can't be 'yanked out' would it be OK to leave it in?

Thanks all.
 
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Old 05-05-2013, 09:01 PM
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Got to ask - are you chopping the chain and replacing ? sounds not.

in my book the tensioner and chain replacement are a marriage of inconvenience.
 
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Old 05-06-2013, 03:03 AM
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Sprock,

Didn't plan to replace the chain itself. But with both cams out the chain is of course slack and I was expecting to be able to extract the slider.

Ah well, the best laid plans...

Thanks
 
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Old 05-06-2013, 10:25 AM
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The way it's in is with a notch sandwiched between the jugs and the head don't yank because if you break it the only way to replace it is to remove the head.
 
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Old 05-06-2013, 10:29 AM
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Here's a picture of one that broke and a good one
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Old 05-06-2013, 10:35 AM
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PCMG is quite correct. Taking the head off is the only way to get that bastard out. For Honda it's an unusually ill conceived bit of design.
Having said that, I replaced mine when I did the head at 100,000 miles and there was really no measurable wear on the old one. Thickness of old one was only about 0.15 mm thinner than the new one.
I'd just change the cam chain and be done with it unless it looks farmer Giles has been practicing ploughing on it.
As Sprocket said, chain and CCT are an intimate couple. If you want to keep her running and sounding sweet you're looking at two tensioners to one chain over 40 K miles.
 
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Old 05-07-2013, 01:31 AM
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Time to market the "HenryM tensioner" old mate and take our pain away.

(And I've had 3 chains and two tensioners and the damn thing still sounds like a bag of old ballbearings................... 65000 miles now..................
So now I just ride the bugger !

I spoke to a bike mechanic who prepares bikes for the SA champ as well as others - he said that he recently had a 1000F in and what he did was to add an additional layer of friction material to the chain guide. He said it stopped the chain rattle immediately.
I'll ask him how he attached the extra layer of "teflon" to the guide and let you know what he says.
 
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Old 05-07-2013, 04:54 AM
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Morning everyone,

Well for me I gotta a scare but will put the henry m design at the end of the summer when i replace the chain. I have a friend whom is a machinist from another forum and i am meeting him Next monday to mpodify a cct to Henry M specs.

Me ii am ok at the moment but found something interesting, remeber two weeks ago i thought I had to split the case open, on closer inspection I realized that idle screw was completly out, a fine bugger to put back in when the carbs are still in the bike,. Once in and adjusted the rattle last about 30 sec max. I realized that before when starting the engine was spinning max 1500rpm, now when starting it is between 1500-2000rpm, why less noise, spinning faster get the cct chamber fill up with oil quicker and taking the slack in the chain faster. And once warm no noise.

By the way anyone can give a brand of good semi synth 20w50 , I have been looking on th net but hard tofibnd and haven't made up my mind yet. The Bel-ray and Ipobne are interestting as well as the Repsol.

Take care everyone.
 
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Old 05-07-2013, 05:03 PM
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Well, the old slider looks like it's hardly lost any of the rubbery stuff so it'll just have to stay where it is. Just waiting for some new o-rings from Tippetts then I'll start to reassemble.

I rounded off one of the four bolts holding the upper cam chain guide - there wasn't quite enough room for my 10mm socket! Managed to get it out by removing the other three and forcibly twisting the guide until the screw started to turn. Brute force and ignorance win the day again!

I suppose any M6 bolt of the right length will do?
 
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Old 05-07-2013, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Shadow
Time to market the "HenryM tensioner" old mate and take our pain away.

(And I've had 3 chains and two tensioners and the damn thing still sounds like a bag of old ballbearings................... 65000 miles now..................
So now I just ride the bugger !

I spoke to a bike mechanic who prepares bikes for the SA champ as well as others - he said that he recently had a 1000F in and what he did was to add an additional layer of friction material to the chain guide. He said it stopped the chain rattle immediately.
I'll ask him how he attached the extra layer of "teflon" to the guide and let you know what he says.
Pete,
If you can just send me about three weeks spare time I'll gladly put the parts into production and have them ready for sale.
As the primary stake holder you would of course be in line for all the CCT mods you need. Strangely, that will only be one. You will never need another.
I could do the same deal with Sprock, but then he needs three.
9 weeks in the Bahamas should do it.....
 

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