Alternator question.
#1
Alternator question.
Hello everyone, its been a while. I've had a lot going on with my bike.
I've been redoing a whole lot of stuff trying to get some performance out it.
The bike is also no longer flat black.
I have recently come across a problem though and i believe i have found the solution, but i would like some feedback before i make a $250 mistake. My bike began to no longer charge the battery. Well the battery was old so i purchased a new one.
This did not solve the problem, so i put a volt meter on the battery, and it didn't even break 13 volts at 5000rpms. So i bought a new rectifier, and still the exact same.
My lights get brighter when rpms go up and the bike runs down the road just fine but will begin to choke and die at idle.
So i went at it with a volt meter following the steps giving in the service manual. From the battery all the way up R/R checks out, but my Stator does not seem to.
The manual says 0-1 Ohms from yellow to yellow. Well there are 3 yellows, and only one of the 3 possible combinations seems to work. Here are some pictures showing what im talking about.
My guess is only a portion of the alternator is working causing my lights to get brighter but not charge the battery.
I've been redoing a whole lot of stuff trying to get some performance out it.
The bike is also no longer flat black.
I have recently come across a problem though and i believe i have found the solution, but i would like some feedback before i make a $250 mistake. My bike began to no longer charge the battery. Well the battery was old so i purchased a new one.
This did not solve the problem, so i put a volt meter on the battery, and it didn't even break 13 volts at 5000rpms. So i bought a new rectifier, and still the exact same.
My lights get brighter when rpms go up and the bike runs down the road just fine but will begin to choke and die at idle.
So i went at it with a volt meter following the steps giving in the service manual. From the battery all the way up R/R checks out, but my Stator does not seem to.
The manual says 0-1 Ohms from yellow to yellow. Well there are 3 yellows, and only one of the 3 possible combinations seems to work. Here are some pictures showing what im talking about.
My guess is only a portion of the alternator is working causing my lights to get brighter but not charge the battery.
#2
Have you browsed through this popular trouble shooting guide?
Motorcycle Charging System Fault Finding Guide
Motorcycle Charging System Fault Finding Guide
#4
[QUOTE=Insan3Nightmare;1253572]Yes and I also followed the one in the cbr manual. My question is are you supposed to get a, 0-1ohm reading on all three yellow wires?[/QUOTE]
From my reading of the fault finding chart - no.
Between 3 and 6 Ohms on all three yellow wires. If the three readings are NOT similar, the stator is at fault.
Others on the forum with more experience on this may like to comment.
Cheers, SB
From my reading of the fault finding chart - no.
Between 3 and 6 Ohms on all three yellow wires. If the three readings are NOT similar, the stator is at fault.
Others on the forum with more experience on this may like to comment.
Cheers, SB
#5
Most multimeters are not good enough to do a good Ohms reading on the generator.
The easiest test you can do with a home multimeter is voltage.
Unplug the r/r from the generator.
Start the bike and have someone hold the rpm at around 2000
Measure the votage from the generator wires
Between any two wires should read around 26v
Check all three combinations of pairs ( 1 and 2, 2 and 3, 3 and 1 )
26v is not too crytical but ALL should be the same.
If you do not get three equal readings then one of the generator phases is toast and you need a new generator.
EDIT - MAKE SURE THE MULTIMETER IS SET FOR AC VOLTAGE - not DC
The easiest test you can do with a home multimeter is voltage.
Unplug the r/r from the generator.
Start the bike and have someone hold the rpm at around 2000
Measure the votage from the generator wires
Between any two wires should read around 26v
Check all three combinations of pairs ( 1 and 2, 2 and 3, 3 and 1 )
26v is not too crytical but ALL should be the same.
If you do not get three equal readings then one of the generator phases is toast and you need a new generator.
EDIT - MAKE SURE THE MULTIMETER IS SET FOR AC VOLTAGE - not DC
#7
Well dean0 I tested and I'm not getting any reading for any combination of the yellow wires, but when testing on the battery the voltage does go up but only to 13v with no headlight on. So far every test I've tried shows the cover as being bad so I will probably order one sometimes this week.
#8
Well dean0 I tested and I'm not getting any reading for any combination of the yellow wires, but when testing on the battery the voltage does go up but only to 13v with no headlight on. So far every test I've tried shows the cover as being bad so I will probably order one sometimes this week.
You will not get a reading on DC volts across the generator wires.
#10