I called my local Honda dealer to see whether they offered any other variants to the OEM hydraulic CCTL, and they did not. The parts desk did mention that there has been several 'versions' to the OEM CCTL. Old CCTLs have been discontinued and replace by 'fixed' or at hopefully at least 'improved' OEM parts. With that said, it is obvious that Honda has recognized that the original CCTL was crap and needed to be replaced.

Does anyone know if they ever got it right?

I would like to put an OEM automatic tensioner on, but don't want to put another piece of **** on my bike that will cause the CC to rattle in a few thousand miles. I know there is a lot of talk about the APE manual tensioner on this forum, but would like to take advantage of an automatic CCTL if it is reliable.

Any info would be appreciated!!!!

roll with the ape heard nothing but good things about them and I have one on my f4i no problems

+1, APE has a massive amount of supporters. It's name is synonymous with aftermarket CCT's

How many people have 40,000+ miles on their motor and cam chain with an APE is the question.

How many people have 40,000+ miles on their motor and cam chain with an APE is the question.
That would actually make a very intetresting poll.

I dont mean to be a thread hijacker, but I just put on my APE cct like a few minutes ago, I just feel like I put it on too tight. It's probably all mental, I must have played with it for like 30 mins loosening and tightening. I just tightened it till I didn't hear much of the ticking anymore, but its hard as **** to tell with the loud ass slip on I have. Weird thing was as I tightened my RPM's would drop it was weird that is what freaked me out. Is this normal? Like i said I tightened it till I didn't hear barely any ticking, someone let me know.

Like I said I didn't want to hijack the thread but, it seemed relavent. :icon_couchhide:

ape is the way to go, never needs to be replaced.
if the rattle comes back you just tighten it till you do not hear it anymore.
i put an ape on mine and love it, it was not that bad to install either.
as for the over tighten thing, just screw it in till it it gets snug with your fingers (not tight, just snug) and then back it out 1/8-1/4 of a turn.
this is what you hear from most everyone.

Initially, I tightened mine up until I felt resistance. Started up the engine and further tightened it (about 1/8 turn) until the noise went away, and locked it in. Upon taking my bike out for a ride, the rattling was still there. Went back in, unlocked it and applied very moderate pressure to the tensioner with the engine running. I noticed that the tensioner would turn tighter in until it reached a particular spot, and then it would not want to go in further without applying significantly more pressure. After having examined how the OEM CCTL operated and the amount of tension the spring exerted, I felt confident that the amount of effort applied to the tensioner was equal to that of the stock piece. Subsequent ride revealed the noise had ceased. Final setting of the tensioner was about 1/2 turn tighter after resistance was felt, but the cam chain has tight and loose sections depending on which part of the revolution it last stopped in. To accurately adjust the tensioner without removal of the valve cover, I think it's necessary to adjust it with the engine running, and I think one should adjust by feel rather than by sound, imo.

Initially, I tightened mine up until I felt resistance. Started up the engine and further tightened it (about 1/8 turn) until the noise went away, and locked it in. Upon taking my bike out for a ride, the rattling was still there. Went back in, unlocked it and applied very moderate pressure to the tensioner with the engine running. I noticed that the tensioner would turn tighter in until it reached a particular spot, and then it would not want to go in further without applying significantly more pressure. After having examined how the OEM CCTL operated and the amount of tension the spring exerted, I felt confident that the amount of effort applied to the tensioner was equal to that of the stock piece. Subsequent ride revealed the noise had ceased. Final setting of the tensioner was about 1/2 turn tighter after resistance was felt, but the cam chain has tight and loose sections depending on which part of the revolution it last stopped in. To accurately adjust the tensioner without removal of the valve cover, I think it's necessary to adjust it with the engine running, and I think one should adjust by feel rather than by sound, imo.

awesome, that is how I did mine with it running, but I stopped before I felt resistance, just a slight decrease in chain noise. I'll go bad and readjust it tonight.

i wanna say that thirdgenxli has an APE on his F4i with over 100k miles on it. maybe he can chime in on his thoughts....