There's been a lot of discussion regarding the best way to install frame slider where the fairing requires modification. After collecting information from all available resources I came up with what seemed the most logical method. Here are some tools beyond the standard that you'll need:

1. A laser pointer of any type with a stable stand.
2. Locktite
3. A hole cutting bit - 1 3/4 in diameter
4. A stand for the bike is also highly recommended

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Step 1: Prepare the Bike

Since drilling of the fairing is required it's of the utmost importance that all measurements be accurate. If anything is to move you'll need to remeasure. Put the bike up on the stand and arrange it so the rear wheel is against a wall. This will help prevent the bike from rolling during setup. Remove the fairing from both sides by following the manufacturer's procedures.

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Step 2: Arranging the Laser

Next remove the engine bolt that will be replaced with the frame slider. Screw the frame slider bolt into this hole, but not all the way. Arrange the laser on the stand so that it is exactly level to the engine bolt. I used a black and decker laser level that had a magnetic base. With the magnet I was able to attach the laser to a utility light. An tripod would have been easier, but I didn't have one. It doesn't matter as long as the laser is stable and doesn't move. Be sure to measure the distance from the engine bolt to the wall. Also measure the distance from the laser to the wall. These numbers should be identical to insure that the guide hole is drilled straight. Point the laser directly at the center of the new engine bolt.

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Step 3: Drilling the guide Holes

Once the laser has been arranged you CANNOT MOVE THE BIKE, so be careful. Replace one side of the fairing. It isn't necessary to replace all the screws, just one or two. Make sure that the fairing is placed in the EXACT correct position. Once the fairing is in place the laser will now be shining on the exact location where the guide hole should be drilled. Use a smaller drill bit and drill the guide hole. Be careful not to run the drill in too far. Just mark the fairing. Repeat on the opposite side.

http://www.cbrforum.com/upfiles/2038/asppg_cw645403171.jpg

Step 4: Drilling the Large Holes

The Vortex frame slider is just under 1 3/4 inches in diameter. A 1 3/4 in hole cutting bit should be perfect to fit the frame slider with a little space all the way around. Remove a 1 3/4" circle of foam from around the guide hole on the back side of the fairing. Also tape around the outside of the guide hole to help keep the cuts clean. Using the hole cutting bit, drill out the 1 3/4 in diameter hole from the fairing. Use a dremmel to clean up the inside of the hole.

http://www.cbrforum.com/upfiles/2038/asppg_rc398815304.jpg

Step 5: Mounting the Spindles and Pucks to the Frame

Note that the two provided spindles aren't the same size. The smaller spindle and shorter bolt go on the left side of the bike. Put some Locktite on the engine bolts, insert them through the spindles, and tighten them down. Do not over tighten these bolts beyond the recommended amount. A torque wrench should be used. Put some locktite on the puck screws and tighten each into its respective spindle.

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Step 6: Replace the Fairing

Lastly, replace the fairings on both sides of the bike. If the pucks don't sit directly in the middle of the fairing you can either leave it or remove the fairing and adjust the size

Perfect write up. I'm just waiting for my rear stand to put mine on. I was going to do a write up like yours, but you did such a good job I'll just snap a few pics. Good job it turned out really good.

-Jesse-

nice job. a little complex but it works none the less.
i acutally used some general purpose grease and put it on the end of the engine mouting bolt. put the fairing back on and drilled the pilot hole through the back with the fairings off the bike....
good stuff
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b324/FullmetalF4i/f4iprepped2r.jpg

Great write up. It prompted me to just put an order in to IndySuperbikes. My Vortex frame sliders should be here in a few days and I should get around to installing them just in time for my wife to drop the bike over on it's side this spring.;) This should complete my modification plans to the 600RR. Well maybe rear sets some day but that depends on if Melissa wants them. Oh yea, I don't own a laser level yet so it is also a great excuse to buy a cool tool. :D

Thanks for taking the time to share with us! They look great!

Great Idea. Nice job....

Not my idea, I won't take credit for that. I think DonCollins was the first I heard to suggest the laser method.

I'm glad I can provide reasons to go buy new tools.

I will have to buy new fairings so I can get a laser lever and a tripod shop light.

Nice wrtie up, but for those of you who dont want to use a laser and not move the bike the whol time, check this out...


------www.rc51.org/slider.htm-----

Yeah I have seen that one but that is not near as cool as the laser one. Come On its a Freaken Laser..... I wonder if it cost 1 millllllion dollars?

I went down to wal mart tonight and go a little tripod (not tall enough for the frame slider install but still cool) and the laser level for $17. They were in the tools and came in one package. I bought that one because I can screw the laser level onto my camera tripod and do it like that. I'll try to find it on their website but its going to work perfectly, but if it doesn't its a blast messing with my cat and dogs with the little red dot on the floor LOL they will chase that dot forever trying to catch it.

totally inspired me too (been putting off too long):

1) is vortex the best?

2) where did you get?

3) how much?

thanks

I got mine from ronayers.com. The come in two pieces. The spindles come as one piece and then the actual pucks come individually. The benefit of this is that if you scratch up a puck you can just replace it without having to replace the entire slider. The pucks were like $13 each + $25 for the spindles. It was about $50 for the whole sha-bangy bang.

The laser is really convenient because it makes such a small, pin point light. Any by the way, the laser level I used in this endeavor was a $30 Black and Decker that I'd used a hundred times to hang pictures, etc. Its nothing special. The fact that it has a magnetic base just made it really convenient. If you don't want/have a tripod just put the laser on a stack of boxes are something. It really doesn't matter, just as long as it doesn't move.

At any rate, if you don't want to use a laser then don't. I haven't needed silly puddy for anything for a while, but my laser level comes in handy all the time.

ORIGINAL: Turnin20s

I went down to wal mart tonight and go a little tripod (not tall enough for the frame slider install but still cool) and the laser level for $17. They were in the tools and came in one package. I bought that one because I can screw the laser level onto my camera tripod and do it like that. I'll try to find it on their website but its going to work perfectly, but if it doesn't its a blast messing with my cat and dogs with the little red dot on the floor LOL they will chase that dot forever trying to catch it.


Heres some pics of the tripod that I got at wal mart
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/turnin20s/P2010048.jpg
And heres the laser level on my camera tripod
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/turnin20s/P2010049.jpg

-Jesse-

Is it just me or does useing the laser seem easier? I have all that stuff at home, the only thing I would need to buy is the drill and the bit. I will have no problems talking my husband into getting new tools, THANKS!:)

I am sure it would be easy. I really didn't have that hard of a time with the 2.00 tool I bought from
http://www.oesaccessories.com/600RR.html

Just my 2 cents.

What does this $2 tool looklike and what does it do? I went to the link you provided and did not see a picture of it.

I don't have a picture of the tool handy but it basically fits into the head of the bolt and has a point on it. When you put it on then put you fairing back on. You apply pressure and the point pierces the fairing so you know the center point. Nothing fancy.

If you would like to see the tool I will take a picture of it and post it if you like (Would be later this evening or tomorrow). I would probably still go this route because I don't have a rear stand to position my bike the same way twice.

Your description of the tool is plenty. No need to take a pic. Thanks though. Sounds pretty simple.

ORIGINAL: no1biscuit

I don't have a picture of the tool handy but it basically fits into the head of the bolt and has a point on it. When you put it on then put you fairing back on. You apply pressure and the point pierces the fairing so you know the center point. Nothing fancy.

If you would like to see the tool I will take a picture of it and post it if you like (Would be later this evening or tomorrow). I would probably still go this route because I don't have a rear stand to position my bike the same way twice.


I kind of know what you mean, but if you have a pic of it I'd really appreciate it. I was going to make something like it ,but they don't have any pictures of it on their website and its $5 now and I think I can make it for about $0.03 LOL. Thanks in advance

-Jesse-

Another nice piece of info would be the torque spec for the bases. Looking in the service manual, it looks like 29 ft-lb (front engine hanger bolt). Is that right? I'm still waiting on my sliders to arrive, so I'm not sure if Vortex provides that number or not.

I think you're right on the torque. But when in doubt, error on the weak/light side. These are cast iron bolts being screwed into a relative soft aluminum engine block, so over-tightening could be disastrous. It didn't take much to remove the stock bolts, so I didn't tighten much installing the new bolts. I also chose to use blue loktite so that I wouldn't have to worry about the torque. Those bolts won't move until I break the bond from the loktite.

Here is a picture of the tool I bought. If anyone cares...

local://upfiles/3643/5C7C8A05B35E4B2EB3122B90388A98FF.jpg

That would do the trick too.

I spent some serious time on typing this up, and the question of installing frame sliders has come up a bunch lately so.... BUMP

how can iget the tool

This is exactly what I was looking for. I am going to install my sliders this weekend. Thanks.

I installed my frame sliders using this guide and it was a simple short job.. thanks for the advice you saved all of us tons of money from the savage dealers..

Can I purchase this head bolt, fairing punch tool at Lowe's? I will need it soon.

That is a great write-up. I was a little leary about drilling my fairing but this really helped my decide to get vortex frame sliders.

Is anyone sure about the torque? I am looking at doing this this week and would hate to overtighten/ruin anything. Let me know if anyone knows.....for sure. thanks.

I set mine to 40 lbs

I did mine lastnight. Haynes says (converted to standard US) 28.76 ft/lbs.

I used playdoh method. NO GAP, dead spot on placement. Of course I'm meticulous and wouldn't offer to do any friend's bikes because of the time invested and the risk of a missed cut.

Nice write up. Just got mine on about 1/2 hour ago. Ended up doing these and the cam chain tensioner at the same time, im now official pooped. Put in at least 5 hrs on the 2 but had to get them done. Thank god!!!!

does your right side slider extend more than your left? same size pucks were used

Yes it does.

thanks .....thought I was losing my mind.....

I hope you don't mind but I coppied all of this installation process to my computer and printed it out so I can look at it while I'm doing this in my garage. looks simple hope it turns out good.

just take your time....and measure more than once

THanks a lot for the wirte up. It helps me a lot in installing my frame sliders.

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ORIGINAL: kiggy74

Note that the two provided spindles aren't the same size. The smaller spindle and shorter bolt go on the left side of the bike.




Left side of the bike...as in when you're sitting on the bike the left side, right? Just making sure becasue I'm going to be installing my vortex frame sliders on my bike next week sometime.

SWEET!! This is on my to do list!!
All these write ups are sooo much help to new owner/riders such as myself.
Thanx for puttin in the time to make these!

Man i wish i was saw this about a week ago. I got it done though..

good walk through im glad i saw it cause im about to buy some, i keep putting it off but i should probably just get them or with my luck ill end up droping my bike

I was wondering if anyone knew if a vortex frame slider for an f4 will fit on an f3.

Good write up

Hi. I just completed installing Vortex Sliders on my 05 600RR. I used the laser level which worked great. However I used a 1 13/16 hole saw and found that it just fits because of the curveature of the bodywork when in place. I hit the hole dead centre, the slider fits in but there is no gap around the slider. For 600RR installs you may wish to consider 1 7/8 hole saw. Great How To - thanks for the help.

Is not 1-7/8 the size vortex recommends?

I did not get any recommendations with the vortex sliders. The original how to on page 1 for a 1000RR used 1 3/4 hole saw. I think because of the different curvature you need 1 7/8 on the 600RR. If Vortex is recommending this - right on. As before mine fit snug with 1 13/16. I was going to try 1 3/4 but decided to go larger - good thing. Again thanks to the original how to.

My bad. I used 1-3/4 on my F4i and it came out spot on (I just checked). When you drill, Use duct tape around the area where the hole saw makes contact. Drill in a level fashion, parellel to the direction of travel of the mounting bolt. Curvature is irrelevant.

I just installed Vortex sliders on my 2000 F4. Instead of using a laser level, I kinda went old school. I installed the base of the frame slider and then coated it with chalk. I installed the fairing and pushed it against the frame slider base. This gives you a perfect imprint on the foam on the inside of the fairing. I drilled a pilot hole, tapped off the area to be drilled and went to town. I think it worked out ok.

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local://upfiles/12238/F70A6BA2E7F74977ACC564BA33ECCB3F.jpg

Sorry for not explaining properly. If both the slider and the plane of the hole are at right angles when the fairing is in place on the bikethen no problem. However on my bike the plane of the fairingnot at 90 degrees to the horizontal slider thus the effective size of the hole becomes smaller. Take a washer, tilt away fromvertical and try and get a horizontal bolt thru. As you tip thewasher further awayfrom vertical, the hole becomes increasingly smaller to the horizontal bolt. Regardless it sounds as if we were both successful in installing our sliders thanks to the original How To.

That is an awesome and entirely simple idea...why the hell didn't i think of that a long long time ago. I knew there was a reason I was part of this forum.

Got the Vortex sliders,and after reading this definitive guide... Put the bike on the lift,hooked up a laser to a camera tripod, anddrilled frame slider holes in the fairings. Thanks for the guide, the holes are EXACT and they look like they came out of thefactory thatway.

Glad to see that this thread has been so helpful.

ORIGINAL: kiggy74

Glad to see that this thread has been so helpful.

+1 Saved me a few bucks.
Thanks kiggy. ;)

A real man would buy a laser strong enough to just burn the holes out and say screw the hole-saw.

I'm just saying... :D

I just installed my sliders and the left side (while sitting on bike) sticks out about 1/2inch further than the other side... is this right? I couldnt have reversed the slider bases could I have? only one of the bases would actually fit into the pinch lock dealy on the right side of the bike (brake side)

Interesting write-ups. I'm curious...how much does a dealer usually charge to install frame sliders?

Great idea! Just ordered my sliders!
Thanks

Not my idea, I won't take credit for that. I think DonCollins was the first I heard to suggest the laser method.

I'm glad I can provide reasons to go buy new tools.

At the risk of saying wish I had thought of that - I did. Back in 2003 after I purchased my RR. I shared the process on several board in the US.
Using the BD laser level is an excellent touch. Initially I simply taped a $10 laser pointer to my Camera tripod.
One word of caution for those using this method. Once you have removed the fairing and aligned the laser dot with the centre of the engine bolt, you have the exact location. When you place the side fairing back on the bike to make a mark for drilling, make sure the fairing is secured at all points. Do not simply attach the top fairing screws and let the fairing hang. This will result in the fairing hole being off and you will need to make the hole larger with a dremel to get it back on over the slider. Not pretty.
Also before cutting the fairing with the hole saw, put masking tape all around where the hole will be cut to prevent any burring on the visible surface.
Finally, if you can find them, I saw a bike that had added collars to the holes and it looked sweet. The guy found round collars normally used in computer desks where the cables are run through - looked very professional. My 2 cents.

great write up. I didn't have a laser handy so i used a wax pencil and made a dot on the center of the bolt. and put fairings back on thus leaving a dot right where i needed to drill. i also thought about just taping a thumb tack to the bolt then when you put the plastics back on you could press the plastics on the tack and it will stick in and stay right where you need to drill.

i think the laser method is probably your best route but if you don't have one there are other methods that work just as well. the main thing is just take your time and be precise with all your drilling. when i was finished you couldn't get a piece of paper in between the plastics and sliders super tight, looks factory.