Okay, so I just recently bought a 2003 cbr honda and when I turn it on after 9 hours of not riding it, it idles between 1-0. When I rev it up for 7-8 RPM's for a brief second, I let the throttle go and it goes to 0 RPM and dies. The tempature outside is around 70-80 degrees. The tempature on the bike is around 108 F when I first start it as well. However, when I rev it to 7-8 RPM's and keep it there until I get around 160 F on the bike, it stays on and works just fine. Seeing as I don't know much about this type of bike, is that normal for a CBR RR to have to be reved up for a minute to keep it idling without dying? Hope to get some answers, ahaha. If you have any questions, just ask. Thanks!

i don't have an RR but my F4i automatically turns the idle up on a cold start to get the engine warmed up to an adequate temp. try NOT reving it... does it die? or does it slowly warm up till its normal?

Yea, when I don't rev it, it doesn't die, but I haven't tried to see if it warms itself up. I usually just rev it to warm it up. I'll give that a shot today.

may just have to turn the idle up... mine is around 1400 rpms @ idle.... just warm it up first and then there is a little knob at the end of a throttle cable on the left side and turn it til u get around 1300-1500 when the bikes warmed up

hahaha, I was not even aware that there was aknob to turn theidle up on the bike. Well, I'll try that out tomorrow and give it a shot and post back here once I do that. Thanks, Justin!

Also, just another problem that I don't know if it's common or not. But when I rev it up, then let the throttle go, the RPM's obviously go down, but the front brights go dim for a second and so does the lights on my digital gauge. Car's do that, I know, but do bike's aswell? Thanks!

Also, try not to flame me for being such a noob. :)

the dimming lights issue is a stator/ regulator/ rectifier problem. basically, its your "alternator" its a fairly common issue on hondas, at least on F4i's it is.

Okay, so I turned the idle up on it today, and it seems to be idling alot smoother. I keep it between 2-1 RPM'S. Doesn't act like it's struggling to idle anymore. I think a filter change and plug change is due for this bike. I'm going to go ahead and do that and see what that does. Thanks, once again, Justin.


ORIGINAL: itgbudeev

the dimming lights issue is a stator/ regulator/ rectifier problem. basically, its your "alternator" its a fairly common issue on hondas, at least on F4i's it is.



Mine's an RR. Do you recommend a fix? Thanks.

Your lights will dim when the rpms drop. its normal for them to do so. the charging system on bikes will charge a little at idle, but they really don't start to charge until around 2000 rpms or so. with your bike that was idling so low, I'd imagine you would notice it quite a bit. But as long as your lights are increasing in brightness as you rev it, your bike is more than likey fine.

Thanks for the advice guys. Pretty much, I adjusted the idle on the bike to around 2 RPM'S and it still starts out with crappy idling, but once the temp starts to go up, the idling becomes alot better. Since I adjusted the RPM'S to around 2 RPM'S for the idling, fortuantly the bike hasn't died on me when I rev it up when I first start it. One thing I did fail to tell you guys because I just got this bike is that I'm noticing a stumble on the take off from a stop sign and it doesn't get that "umph" it needs when throttling it full-force. The bike has 10k miles on it and the previous owner never changed the oil or air filter and he put around 3000 miles on it. He said it had around 7k miles when he got it. I have no clue if the previous owner before him change the oil or air filter or not, but that's what I decided I'm going to do. I'm going to change the air filter, oil and spark plugs. Once I do that, I'll post up results. Haha, it helps to browse the forums and use the "search" function before jumping to conclusions or asking questions like a complete nub. ^_^.

Once again, thanks guys, and please, feel free to comment or leave feedback because I'm open to try anything with my bike to get it running like the champ I know it is.

one more thing... if the bike is warm (160 +) and the idle is rough but goes away at high r's well thats the engine saying it needs an oil change. the idle doesnt need to be set at 2k....

2000 rpm is a bit high for an idle. I would suggest around 1400 max. the 2000rpm suggestion was just to show that the charging system really starts working at that point.

As for your stumble.. Most bikes at very low speeds will hesitate a little if you dump the gas on. Its just too much fuel for the engine to take under load and it will hesitate, then take off. If this what you are talking about, its normal and a more gradual throttle until your rpms are up a bit, then you can nail the throttle. the only other thing you can really do is slip the clutch a bit on take off to keep the rpms higher.

I would definately change the oil. I'm assuming its gone through a few seasons and quite afew miles. In fact, I would change it, then in another 1000 miles, change it again.

alright, thanks guys again. I'm def going to be changing the air filter and oil today possibly. I'll let you guys know how it runs once all is done. :) I'm sure changing the oil isn't too hard as I did it on my old bike a couple times, but, does anyone have a link to a write up on how to change it on the 600 RR 03 edition? Thanks.:)

all you gotta do is take take the bolts outa one mid and lower right side than drain, and get the filter off... i would suggest buying the k&n filter bcuz it has a bolt thing on the end so you can wrench of the filter next time as opposed to doing the rubber strap wrench.... thats a pain in the rear.