hey guys. been browsing the forum for a lil while now and i've decided to post my probs for some 1 on 1. i have an 03 cbr 600rrwith 13000 mi and there are some issues that i want to address. i've only owned the bike since last season and although i'm very familar with cars, i don't want to make assumptions on my bike. heres the story.
1st, my instrument cluster works perfectly. all lights work and gauges perfrom as they should. only problem is the 2 buttons used to adjust the clock and trip. they do not work at all, push them numerous times and both together and they do not work at all. and frankly, i'm getting annoyed looking at a clock that doesn't read the correct time.
2nd is my neutral gear. ok this is what i worry about and what i also have no clue about. the bike is very difficult to roll in neutral, almost like there is resistance. what made me worry about this is when i had to move my friends 2000 gsxr 600 with 5000 mi. his bike was soooooooo easy to roll. it took almost no effort what so ever. i don't know if this has any problem with the trans or the clutch? is it just something prone to this specific bike?
the last thing is starting the bike. i keep the bikes in a heated garage so i didn't bother winterizing. i just make the effort to start them once a week andrun them for about 10 mins.and about once or twice a month i ride them up and down the parking garage. yesterday i went to start my bike after about a week or so and it started right up. i rode up and down the parking garage and let it run for about 10 more minutes while my buddy and i started the gsxr. (his battery died so i had to push him in 1st gear and pop the clutch to get it started). we ran the gsxr up and down a few times and i went and turned off my bike. he left his running for about 10 min or so and then i had to put them back in the spot where they go. his goes in first so we put it away, then i went to go start my bike and i got nothing. it sounded like it tried to crank butthere wasn't enough juice to start it. so, i removed the seat and jump started it and it started right up. when i put it away i turned it off and tried to start again within 5 sec or so and i could tell it had problems starting. i don't know if it is a battery issue or alternator. does anyone know where the alternators are on these bikes?.....my main question is how can the bike start after sitting for a little over a week and then not start after it was running for 15 min.
Bullswool
02-14-2008, 01:22 AM
Ok I'm gonna throw a couple of answers out there.
The buttons on the instrument cluster you have to hold in for a good few seconds. They are not an instant reset thing.
About your neutral gear. You might wanna check your brakes and make sure they are not binding. If they are clear then you should have a peep at your drive train and make sure that nothing is binding it up also.
The stator (altenator) is on the left hand side of the bike if your sitting on it. It's the thing under that cover that always gets scratched up when you drop the bike. I don't think you'll have to worry about that bit. However I think running the bike for 10 minutes here and there is not enough to give the battery a good charge. From what I've read it's also not good practice to start your bike for the 10 minute now and then thing because it doesn't warm the engine up to the correct running temp and you can get condensation build up in your crank case and that = rust blah blah etc. Anyhow it's just not good. If your gonna start it up take it for a decent ride.
HAVOC
02-14-2008, 01:33 AM
hold your buttons down longer
as far as being hard to push ... has the bike been dropped before ? could be a bent fork causingpressure on the caliper... had the exact same problem on my929 when i bought it
the electrical system is not the same on your bike as it is on a car. you cant let it sit @ idle and expect it to charge the rpms have to be above 3k for it to even start charging, so by letting it sit there so are draining the battery
bergs
02-14-2008, 01:58 AM
ORIGINAL: p0tential
1st, my instrument cluster works perfectly. all lights work and gauges perfrom as they should. only problem is the 2 buttons used to adjust the clock and trip. they do not work at all, push them numerous times and both together and they do not work at all. and frankly, i'm getting annoyed looking at a clock that doesn't read the correct time.
I believe the suggestions already posted will help with this.
2nd is my neutral gear. ok this is what i worry about and what i also have no clue about. the bike is very difficult to roll in neutral, almost like there is resistance. what made me worry about this is when i had to move my friends 2000 gsxr 600 with 5000 mi. his bike was soooooooo easy to roll. it took almost no effort what so ever. i don't know if this has any problem with the trans or the clutch? is it just something prone to this specific bike?
I'd like to ask--> How are your tire pressures right now? Don't kick 'em and say they're fine, put an acutal gauge on both of them and see where they're at.
the last thing is starting the bike. i keep the bikes in a heated garage so i didn't bother winterizing. i just make the effort to start them once a week andrun them for about 10 mins.and about once or twice a month i ride them up and down the parking garage. yesterday i went to start my bike after about a week or so and it started right up. i rode up and down the parking garage and let it run for about 10 more minutes while my buddy and i started the gsxr. (his battery died so i had to push him in 1st gear and pop the clutch to get it started). we ran the gsxr up and down a few times and i went and turned off my bike. he left his running for about 10 min or so and then i had to put them back in the spot where they go. his goes in first so we put it away, then i went to go start my bike and i got nothing. it sounded like it tried to crank butthere wasn't enough juice to start it. so, i removed the seat and jump started it and it started right up. when i put it away i turned it off and tried to start again within 5 sec or so and i could tell it had problems starting. i don't know if it is a battery issue or alternator. does anyone know where the alternators are on these bikes?.....my main question is how can the bike start after sitting for a little over a week and then not start after it was running for 15 min.
A few problems with what you're doing...don't start the motor and idle it or ride it for 2 minutes at a time on a weekly basis....totally unnecessary and not good.
Bullswool sums it up with regards to your oil and internals.
HAVOC sums up your charging issue just fine.
One last issue is your buddy's Gixxer....that is the root of every problem you are having with your bike.......I'd have him park his bike somewhere else like...say..... a dumpster and you're bike will magically fix itself.
;)
Welcome and enjoy. This place is great!
p0tential
02-14-2008, 03:45 AM
ORIGINAL: Bullswool
Ok I'm gonna throw a couple of answers out there.
The buttons on the instrument cluster you have to hold in for a good few seconds. They are not an instant reset thing.
About your neutral gear. You might wanna check your brakes and make sure they are not binding. If they are clear then you should have a peep at your drive train and make sure that nothing is binding it up also.
The stator (altenator) is on the left hand side of the bike if your sitting on it. It's the thing under that cover that always gets scratched up when you drop the bike. I don't think you'll have to worry about that bit. However I think running the bike for 10 minutes here and there is not enough to give the battery a good charge. From what I've read it's also not good practice to start your bike for the 10 minute now and then thing because it doesn't warm the engine up to the correct running temp and you can get condensation build up in your crank case and that = rust blah blah etc. Anyhow it's just not good. If your gonna start it up take it for a decent ride.
the buttons have been messed with on numerous occasions along with pressing them for numerous lengths in time. nothing seems to get them working. as far as starting the bike? i read that if you weren't going to winterize, then to start the bike every week or so and let it run.....THIS ISN'T GOOD FOR THE BIKE? why? i don't understand how it could cause condensation build up? maybe i'm just too unfamilar with motorcyles. if thats the case, and it being so late in the winter....what is suggested i do now to keep it maintained for summer?
p0tential
02-14-2008, 03:49 AM
ORIGINAL: HAVOC
hold your buttons down longer
as far as being hard to push ... has the bike been dropped before ? could be a bent fork causingpressure on the caliper... had the exact same problem on my929 when i bought it
the electrical system is not the same on your bike as it is on a car. you cant let it sit @ idle and expect it to charge the rpms have to be above 3k for it to even start charging, so by letting it sit there so are draining the battery
bike was touched down from parked position on its right side. only damage is VERY VERY LIGHT scrapes to the engine cover (not sure exactly what the cover is for...maybe tranny) but i'm pretty sure the forks are not bent. i know the chain is very rusty and could be original, i plan on having that replaced begining of season. tires are low on pressure but so are my friends so i don't thing they would be the cause for the dramatic difference in the roll. has it got anything to do with the tranny? like a burnt clutch or something? i may just have the bike completely checked out when the season starts up at chicago cycle and have them look over it? any suggestions on what i should have done to the bike begining of season? it does have 13000 mi and though its in great shape, i'm not sure of the service record on the bike
Volksdragg
02-14-2008, 04:37 AM
Change your battery then use a battery tender on it. (Motorcycle batteries only last about a year or two).I'd have to see your bike to repair the other problems.
isolated1523
02-14-2008, 08:09 AM
Your button issue is a very common one for the 03 600RR. What has happened is that the small white pieces underneath the rubber button cover have come apart, so when you push the buttons, nothing happens. There's a couple of different fixes for this, do a quick search and you'll find a bunch.
The 03 600RR's were notorious for their crappy charging/electrical systems. Mine would act up if it got really hot, or if i rode it too long at low rpms. The best way to keep that battery charged up is to RIDE it---like you stole it. I found that when i rode it hard, i never had an issue with starting it the next time.
Hope this helps!!!!
-Adam
fishfryer527
02-14-2008, 08:22 AM
As far as the button issue and time.... Disconnect/reconnect your battery at noon until you have the time to really fix it.
p0tential
02-14-2008, 10:16 AM
ORIGINAL: fishfryer527
As far as the button issue and time.... Disconnect/reconnect your battery at noon until you have the time to really fix it.
haha...thought about that as a quik fix...but id really like to get the buttons working...thanx thou
Bullswool
02-14-2008, 03:20 PM
Listen to these fellas they know what they're talking about. As far as the 10 minute let it run deal, I'll try to explain it as I understand it. It goes like this,lets sayyou have a very small room with an air conditioner in it. Room gets hot so you wack on the aircon. What happens is the room cools down real fast and condensation forms on the windows right? (it also works in reverse) Like when you have a heated room and it's cold outside. Well the same principal applies. Imagine your crankcase is a very small room. Your not gonna fit a lot of furniture in there but what you are doing is taking a cold room and warming it really fast. What this does is from condensation. You really need to get the bike to a decent temp to cook it off or else said condensation is going to sit inside your crankcase and start to rust your internals.
I'm not the best with analogies so if someone else can better explain please be my guest.
Also the neutral problem has nothing to do with your clutch. You're in neutral, clutch is engaged but not driving a gear. Besides, you mentioned that you went for a quick blast around the car park. You would definately know if it was your clutch by then.
Rusted chain aint gonna help one bit. Clean and lube that sucker and see if that helps but I would definately replace it. Inspect your sprockets too. They might be knackered.
Read this http://www.cbrforum.com/m_405789/tm.htmabout the charging system too because I doubt just scooting around the carpark is doing your battery any good.
Best of luck mate.
bergs
02-14-2008, 04:16 PM
ORIGINAL: p0tential
as far as starting the bike? i read that if you weren't going to winterize, then to start the bike every week or so and let it run.....THIS ISN'T GOOD FOR THE BIKE? why? i don't understand how it could cause condensation build up? maybe i'm just too unfamilar with motorcyles. if thats the case, and it being so late in the winter....what is suggested i do now to keep it maintained for summer?
The information you read regarding a weekly running of the engine is total BS.
Condensation builds up when two surfaces are being heated and/ or cooled at different rates.
The two surfaces in our scenario is theoil and the crankcase.
You know when you start up your bike and some steam comes out of the exhaust? Guess what, the exact same thing is happening inside your engine as well.
Now if you repeat that process over and over then eventually you will have a layer of water that gets mixed in with your oil which breaks down the lubricating properties of the oil. Do that enough times and before you know it, you've blown your motor because the oil can't do its job.
For winterizing, fill the tank, drain the carbs trickle charge the battery once a month and wait for spring time.Winterizing isreally that simple.
For summer, I assume you ride more than 2 minutes at a time so, IMO, maintain it as you normally would.
Bullswool
02-14-2008, 04:55 PM
ORIGINAL: bergs
ORIGINAL: p0tential
as far as starting the bike? i read that if you weren't going to winterize, then to start the bike every week or so and let it run.....THIS ISN'T GOOD FOR THE BIKE? why? i don't understand how it could cause condensation build up? maybe i'm just too unfamilar with motorcyles. if thats the case, and it being so late in the winter....what is suggested i do now to keep it maintained for summer?
The information you read regarding a weekly running of the engine is total BS.
Condensation builds up when two surfaces are being heated and/ or cooled at different rates.
The two surfaces in our scenario is theoil and the crankcase.
You know when you start up your bike and some steam comes out of the exhaust? Guess what, the exact same thing is happening inside your engine as well.
Now if you repeat that process over and over then eventually you will have a layer of water that gets mixed in with your oil which breaks down the lubricating properties of the oil. Do that enough times and before you know it, you've blown your motor because the oil can't do its job.
For winterizing, fill the tank, drain the carbs trickle charge the battery once a month and wait for spring time.Winterizing isreally that simple.
For summer, I assume you ride more than 2 minutes at a time so, IMO, maintain it as you normally would.
Clear and concise!
p0tential
02-15-2008, 12:19 PM
wow, never thought about that....looks like i wont be running the bikes like that anymore. i hate being ignorant on a topic...