Yet another CCT post I guess, but search hasnt turned up anything yet.

So I followed the instructions in the how to for changing the bolt on the stock CCT posted by envirocbr: http://www.cbrforum.com/fb.asp?m=194939

Initially I was using a nylon insert nut, so while tightening it I might have tightened the CCT bolt like 1/4 rotation or so. Or left it 1/4 rotation loose while starting the bike... Finally when I got done tightening, the bike seemed to misfire and didnt start. So I bought a regular nut, hand tightened the bolt again and tried to start the bike.... still doesnt start. Starter turns over strong, there's some little smoke coming out of the pipe, but the bike just doesnt fire up. A little cough once in a while, that's all :(

What could be the issue? If there's something I didnt do it was to put the crank to TDC 1 or whatever that means... I didnt move the bike while working on it.
What to do? Can I move the bike?

I removed the CCT bolt and checked against the stock bolt size... finger tight was as much as 5-8 mm more than the stock bolt! I find this absurd.
I adjusted the nut so that the bolt protrudes only as much as the stock bolt... then put the bolt in, assuming this would restore the CCT to the same condition as before I messed with it. But still the bike wont start :(

The reason the difference was 5-8mm was because of the slack in the chain. Thats the idea, to remove the slack...

I have a bad feeling that you jumped time, you may be in for a long costly repair I am afraid. I wish I could give you some more than that.

did you unplug anything, and if you did are you sure you plugged it back in? also is the FI light on you gauge cluster on?

At one point I had forgotten to plug the throttle sensor plug in, which the FI light indicated, so I did that. Now there's no FI light... everything seems normal except the bike doesnt fire up...

How did I jump time by just putting in the bolt? Bike was running perfectly until I decided to mess with it :(

anyone? [:o]

ORIGINAL: sharker98



I have a bad feeling that you jumped time, you may be in for a long costly repair I am afraid. I wish I could give you some more than that.




This is why I havn't installed my APE CCT yet. I'm paranoid about it jumping time and I really didn't want to tear the motor apart to find tdc. I know tons of people have done it without finding tdc with no problems. But with my luck, I don't know.

ORIGINAL: ampfp

anyone? [:o]


Sorry my answer wasn't what you want to hear, but I am afraid it is theonly answer.

hm. I guess time to stop amateur tinkering and take it to a shop :(

Keep us posted.

manual says to set TDC but you can still adjust without out.

there's no way to comparing the OEM cctl length with manual!!!!

when you pull out the stock CCTL, it extends all the way out as it's spring loaded...and always wanting to extend to tighten...if you adjusted your ape to 5-8mm more than what the stock cctl is at full extension, it's WAY TOO TIGHT...

does this make sense?

if your bike did jump timing, it would still start, just run like crap. does it fire up with the APE cctl totally loose?

T

I didnt change to APE. I just took off the top bolt of the CCT and put in a longer bolt.
So I took it to the shop hoping I'd not bent any valves and such, and the guy said it started up the next day :o
Problem is the CCT sound still seems to be there... maybe lesser. I didnt really adjust it to make sure the sound went away (since it wouldnt start)
I dont want to mess with it anymore [&o]

Could check compression - if it was way out of whack to where it wouldn't run, you'd find your compression on all cylinders is very low... (Valve not closing/opening when it should)

There SHOULD be fuel smell from the exhaust.- you did check all the obvious first right?- Pump primes, wires are all connected and nothing would have gotten bumped... - Specifically, I would look for the Cam and Crank position sensors and wiring.

***Sorry - didn't notice you said that it did wind up starting...***

Hearing stories like this makes me want to just LEAVE MINE ALONE... - Looking at how that tensioner is put together, it shouldn't get slack to the point of jumping, just rattle... - I don't think a longer bolt would help at all though - watch out - that top bolt is just to seal it so the oil stays in the engine.

i see a lot of cct post what exactly is a cct what does it do and do the 04-06 have the same issues?

Cam chain tensioner.

I'll let someone else answer this part.

And, yes.

Search away - you'll find lots of info...

Honda 600's CCTs are noisy on pretty much all 99-06 F4/F4i's - Occasionally people have found fixes for the automatic tensioner, but they generally do not stick for long (a few thousand miles). - From what I've seen on them, and the way they are made, they are working as designed, however there are loose parts (tip and shaft) inside that will cause them to rattle. Annoying to listen to, but nothing that will do damage.

You can replace them with a manual tensioner, however you should occasionally (annually) readjust it.

I think I'll just be living with the rattle until Honda makes a quiet automatic tensioner. - They have had at least 3 revisions so far (J21, J22, J23) with no major improvements in the noise...

AFAIK, j23 is healed one...