Anyone done alot of work to there bikes? Stuff like power commander,air filter, gears,cams,headwork,suspension mods, appearance mods? Just anything. If so please list what youve done, if you think it was worth it(any pics would be cool)? And would it be worth it to do some internal engine work(cams,head work,etc..) or just leave it stock?Thanks for any reply's.

ORIGINAL: stephen4785

Anyone done alot of work to there bikes? Stuff like power commander,air filter, gears,cams,headwork,suspension mods, appearance mods? Just anything. If so please list what youve done, if you think it was worth it(any pics would be cool)? And would it be worth it to do some internal engine work(cams,head work,etc..) or just leave it stock?Thanks for any reply's.


Im one tooth down in the front, and lowered. You will notice a considerable difference when you go a tooth down in the front. If your dragging, you will want to lower it once you put that sprocket on. Im getting ready to put a nitrous kit, and a power commander on mine right now, so ill post up when its all said and done.

Oh yeah, sprocket and lowering is worth it if you drag, if not. I would just do sprocket, and power commander.

Hey everyone. New to the board. I've got an F4i motor I'm working on for a project bike. Besides the usuall gearing and intake, exhaust swaps, are there any little cheap tricks ya'll have for these engines? Also, any speculation as to the gains of a big bore? When I got the engine, it had a blown head gasket. I figure if it's worth doing, now's the time to do it while it's apart. Thanks

ORIGINAL: Scrapyard

Hey everyone. New to the board. I've got an F4i motor I'm working on for a project bike. Besides the usuall gearing and intake, exhaust swaps, are there any little cheap tricks ya'll have for these engines? Also, any speculation as to the gains of a big bore? When I got the engine, it had a blown head gasket. I figure if it's worth doing, now's the time to do it while it's apart. Thanks


I dont know if there is any "cheap" tricks you can do to these bikes. A stroker kit is going to cost you around 2 to 3k. I have NO idea on the displacement it would make on these engines. I would GUESS they would give you around a 20 hp gain, ROUGHLY!!! For that, you might as well put nitrous on it. But then with a big bore kit, you have that extra power, AND then you can put nitrous on it.

In just plan on doing maybe cams in mine before I go to a stroker motor.

for 2-3k I'd rather build a big block oil cooled GSXR. I saw weisco had a big bore kit for the F4i at around $400. But if you're only get'n around 20hp with a stroker, I'll just leave it stock. Not worth it for me to put that kinda money in a 600. Thanks for the info.

put a big motor in your 600.....by that i mean bad ass big cc motor with 600 badges![sm=icon_rock.gif]
You'd suprise alot of busa with that one[sm=trust_me.gif]

$2500 -- install a turbo and crank out 220+ hp with no need to refill a stoopid bottle every 10th trip down the track.:D

ORIGINAL: chainstretcher

$2500 -- install a turbo and crank out 220+ hp with no need to refill a stoopid bottle every 10th trip down the track.:D



Yeah, and have 220hp worth of trouble keeping the front wheel down. Where do you think you can get a turbo kit for 2500?

isnt 20 hp on bike alot of power? I know car wise you can spend alot more and not get as much out of it.

what kind of motor can I put in it? And if I put a bigger motor what kind of power can I get out of it.(im assuming a 929 or 1000)

ORIGINAL: stephen4785

isnt 20 hp on bike alot of power? I know car wise you can spend alot more and not get as much out of it.

20 hp worth in mods compared to stock is a VERY GOOD jump. You WILL notice it VERY easily.

ORIGINAL: stephen4785

what kind of motor can I put in it? And if I put a bigger motor what kind of power can I get out of it.(im assuming a 929 or 1000)

Im not sure what kind of bike you have, but your going to run into motor mount issues, and things along that line. You can definitely get some good power out of a properly setup bike no matter what size it is.

iv got a 2202 F4i

929 and 954 ain't happening. 1000, probably not gona work either. You're better off just get'n a bigger bike if you want a serious power monster. Although, the F4i still has about 100hp at the crank, so it's not exactly slow. 600's are more for flickablity then raw power. If you want that stand the front wheel up, rip your arms out power. Get a Liter bike.

Id just like to be able to come up next to a bigger bike and give them a scare occasionaly. I love being under estimated and then stomping someone.

One word... nitrious. Cheapest, easiest way to horse power. Not nesesseraly the greatest, but it works. Get a 40 shot and have fun.

ORIGINAL: mkfosgate


ORIGINAL: chainstretcher

$2500 -- install a turbo and crank out 220+ hp with no need to refill a stoopid bottle every 10th trip down the track.:D



Yeah, and have 220hp worth of trouble keeping the front wheel down. Where do you think you can get a turbo kit for 2500?



No kit for $2500 -- add maybe $1500 for a kit. However, we are part of this wonderful thing called 'internet' and info is free for the taking (the $1500 is for the kit makers time and knowledge). Turbos are basically simple -- do a crap load of research and buy, make or have made the components you need. I know peeps that have done Busas for under $1500 out of pocket -- of course this person made some of his stuff. Mine was only $2500 and put 300hp down at the wheel. Just understand that once you taste the power it's reeeeeeal hard to go back. Shoulder surgery prompted me to sell the Boosted Busa and get a milder 1kRR. I love the RR but I do occasionally miss picking up the front tire in 4th at 140mph.

A 40hp dry shot of nitrous would prolly be a hoot on a 1kRR. I personally don't recommend the nitrous because few people I've ever know can keep out of the bottle and usually have bad stuff happen (can you say holed a piston?).

ORIGINAL: stephen4785

Id just like to be able to come up next to a bigger bike and give them a scare occasionaly. I love being under estimated and then stomping someone.


Like scrapy said, nitrous. BUT, i wound never go with a 40 shot on a 600. I think a 20 shot is safe.

ORIGINAL: chainstretcher

$2500 -- install a turbo and crank out 220+ hp with no need to refill a stoopid bottle every 10th trip down the track.:D


220 a little high zx10r only make 250 boosted. ihave seen f4i make 150 or more to the ground.

I guess I don't quite understand it.

You get a 600 because they rock in the twisties. Compare a 600 to a 1000 on a twisty backroad and it is the rider that will win it every time.

If you like going fast in a straight line, then get a Superbike or Hypersport. Go ahead and dump a couple grand into a 600, take it to the track and get schooled by a rider who has a lowered and geared 1000 that cost him less than all the mods to your bike. BTW, I forgot to mention that after you have modded the hell out of your 600 you can no longer ride it ont he street because it scrapes on every speed bump and overheats if you stand still for longer than 30 seconds. Now once you are pissed at your bike.....go ahead and try to sell it. See who wants to pay for your "project" bike.

Its your money do what you want. Just make sure you know what you are trying to do.

For me, I will stick with mild mods and spend most of my money on tires, tracktime, and replacing knee sliders.

Woke this one up from the dead, didnt ya! :D

ORIGINAL: Blackdog F4i

I guess I don't quite understand it.

You get a 600 because they rock in the twisties. Compare a 600 to a 1000 on a twisty backroad and it is the rider that will win it every time.

If you like going fast in a straight line, then get a Superbike or Hypersport. Go ahead and dump a couple grand into a 600, take it to the track and get schooled by a rider who has a lowered and geared 1000 that cost him less than all the mods to your bike. BTW, I forgot to mention that after you have modded the hell out of your 600 you can no longer ride it ont he street because it scrapes on every speed bump and overheats if you stand still for longer than 30 seconds. Now once you are pissed at your bike.....go ahead and try to sell it. See who wants to pay for your "project" bike.

Its your money do what you want. Just make sure you know what you are trying to do.

For me, I will stick with mild mods and spend most of my money on tires, tracktime, and replacing knee sliders.


whats gonna make the bike overheat? the turbo wont its not make the bike overheat. while under boost it will make it run just a little higher but all u need is a radiator upgrade if you want. i wouldnt lower my bike unless i was extending it. in my opinion lowering is stupid cuz the rear can be lowered more then the front cuz after 20mm you throw the front suspension off.

Have you ever seen ANY turbo vehicle (even intercooled) NOT run hotter than an equivalent N/A?

You are adding backpressure to the exhauast. This reduces volumetric efficiency when not under boost. This is turn makes the engine less efficient AND keeps more residual heat in the engine.

As to if it "boils over" that I can't answer because I don't now, nor ever will have a turbo F4i.;)

ORIGINAL: Blackdog F4i

Have you ever seen ANY turbo vehicle (even intercooled) NOT run hotter than an equivalent N/A?

You are adding backpressure to the exhauast. This reduces volumetric efficiency when not under boost. This is turn makes the engine less efficient AND keeps more residual heat in the engine.

As to if it "boils over" that I can't answer because I don't now, nor ever will have a turbo F4i.;)


hey ur talking to the wrong person about turbo cars. i have 96 tsi awd, 98 eclipse gst, and 89 turbo supra. they all have intercoolers wow. actually when the car runs with vacum the car runs cooler i have logs onmy laptop from my car.its only when under boost it gets hotter. my car runscooler and has a colder thermastat than any na versons of my cars. the intercooler actually keeps the air cooler when under vacum while drivin.i have many hours building tuning and boostin cars. and when you have a bigger exhaust pipe that will increase volumetric efficiency. turbos are very effiecient because the turbine pulls the exhaust out and pushes it out faster than any other na engine can. thats why u need a bigger exhaust. turbos when under vacum will not make any more heat than the exhaust puts out. so you will not over heat. the only reasons some turbo cars overheat is becasue they do not have a properly size front mount which people put huge ones on and they block all there radiator air.

Dude, I am not going to get into a internet pissing match with you, but you have some serious misconceptions about turbos.

1. Buying factory turbo cars does not make you a turbo expert. Rebuilding a factory turbo engine with fancy parts also does not make you an expert.
2. The car does run cooler at idle than under boost.....however AS I STATED it runs hotter than it would WITHOUT a turbo. Running a colder thermostat would explain why your car runs cooler.
3. A bigger exhaust pipe will not increase VE.
4. A turbo does not PULL exhaust out of the engine. PULL would indicate that the turbo is causing vacuum in the exhaust manifold. In a turbo motor even at idle the exhaust pressure in the exhaust manifold is greater than the pressure in the downpipe. In fact under boost most street turbo systems have an exhaust manifold pressure of several times what the boost pressure made by the turbo.
5. Even with a 100% efficient charge air cooler (intercooler) you cannot reduce the intake air temp lower than ambient temp. This means that NO MATTER WHAT it is pushing hotter air into the engine than the same motor without a turbo.
6. Cooling systems on small engines are already taxed. Increasing heat in the engine (anything that increases power increases heat) limits the safety margin of the cooling system.

Believe what you want to believe. What I posted above applies to 99% of street turbo systems. Nitromethane and Alcohol fueled cars run under different rules.

Lastly. If you want to prove me wrong. Your turbo F4i and idle it next to a stock F4i in traffic. Which one runs cooler.;)

ORIGINAL: Blackdog F4i

Dude, I am not going to get into a internet pissing match with you, but you have some serious misconceptions about turbos.

1. Buying factory turbo cars does not make you a turbo expert. Rebuilding a factory turbo engine with fancy parts also does not make you an expert.
2. The car does run cooler at idle than under boost.....however AS I STATED it runs hotter than it would WITHOUT a turbo. Running a colder thermostat would explain why your car runs cooler.
3. A bigger exhaust pipe will not increase VE.
4. A turbo does not PULL exhaust out of the engine. PULL would indicate that the turbo is causing vacuum in the exhaust manifold. In a turbo motor even at idle the exhaust pressure in the exhaust manifold is greater than the pressure in the downpipe. In fact under boost most street turbo systems have an exhaust manifold pressure of several times what the boost pressure made by the turbo.
5. Even with a 100% efficient charge air cooler (intercooler) you cannot reduce the intake air temp lower than ambient temp. This means that NO MATTER WHAT it is pushing hotter air into the engine than the same motor without a turbo.
6. Cooling systems on small engines are already taxed. Increasing heat in the engine (anything that increases power increases heat) limits the safety margin of the cooling system.

Believe what you want to believe. What I posted above applies to 99% of street turbo systems. Nitromethane and Alcohol fueled cars run under different rules.

Lastly. If you want to prove me wrong. Your turbo F4i and idle it next to a stock F4i in traffic. Which one runs cooler.;)


hey im not gonna eitehr but im telling you by all my logs that my car runs cooler at idle than a NA version the car comes with a colder thermasta because they wanna make sure your car runs cooler with a turbo. ive also logged ambiet air versusafter it goes through my intercooler and guess what on a 90 degree day while under vacum the temps around 78 degrees but hey you know everything. thefirst thing that any person that knows anything about real life turbochargingwill tell youstraight out theory isnt always right with turbos. go to dsmtuners.com and askanyone of the wisemen. oh yeah for ur info i just dont buy turbo cars that come with them stock. i have installed and built my own systems for 2 supras, a civic, a non turbo talon. thats not including any of my cars. tuning and doin machine work and porting and polishing are not buying stock cars or partsoff the shelf. whenyouve built a turbocar and tuned it and watched a lot of funky things in ur logging, cuz theory always dont work. thereslotsof variables that are differnet in every car even if its the same exact car. but hey im done about this, i have plenty expience and thats all that matters.