This is a holder spot for a post I'm making for a step by step on a clutch replacement for a 93-96 CBR1000F. I will also do one on replacing the plastic speedo nut that wears out over time, but not until next week.

This is a step by step display of how to replace your clutch on a 93-96 CBR1000F. This is going to show as much as possible for those who don't know what they are doing. For those that do, skip down just a little.

Stuff you need:
1) Tools for removing you RIGHT SIDE fairing
2) 8mm socket for removing bolts on clutch cover
3) Big blade screwdriver for removing the clutch cover
4) New fiber plates and if your cautious, maybe a couple of steel plates
5) New clutch cover gasket
6) Long reach magnet
7) TORQUE WRENCH (unless you think your gifted and can tell when something is only at 9ft lbs and not 13 ft lbs.)

Stuff that you don't necessarily need but helps:
1) New clutch springs
2) New clutch spring bolts

Ok, now that that's out of the way, here we go.

First Step: Drain your oil (makes life easy)

Second Step: Soak New Clutch Fiber plates in clean oil

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/9066/dscf0841wp7.jpg
Some people will say just to throw them in dry, but I tend to sometimes follow the manufacturer's directions.

Third Step: Remove RIGHT SIDE FARING
From this...
http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/8781/dscf0838go0.jpg

To This:

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/8694/dscf0840em8.jpg

Fourth Step: Remove bolts on clutch cover and remove cover...

http://imgcash2.imageshack.us/img384/1059/dscf0842ib0.jpg

WARNING: When trying to remove the clutch cover, DO NOT use the dip stick hole as a leverage point. The threads cannot handle the weight and will quickly collapse (ask me how I know). There are two tabs on the cover that can be used as prying points. I highlighted them in red in the above picture. I used a large blade screwdriver and pried the cover off using the tab by the dipstick, using the rear brake pedal as a pivot point.

After the cover pops off comes...

STEP FIVE: Clean the old gasket off the cluch cover and the case
http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/4097/dscf0843am7.jpg
http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7097/dscf0844dz1.jpg

So that it looks like this:

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/4258/dscf0845al6.jpg

This step will probably take the longest to accomplish, especially, if the gasket is embedded on there good. Mine took almost an hour to completely clean, with the cover taking the longest. The case came off relatively easily.

Now that the cleaning is done..

STEP SIX: Unbolt the clutch hub

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/9452/dscf0846oc1.jpg

See those 5 bolts? They're 10mm heads. I unbolted them 1/2 turn at a time in a circular movement so as to not stress and one part of the clutch hub. After about 6 times around I could safely remove them one at a time.

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/4093/dscf0847gg0.jpg

STEP SEVEN: Remove the clutch hub and begin to remove the fiber and steel plates

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/3878/dscf0848xb6.jpg

This is where the magnet comes in. The first couple of fiber plates will be easy as you can just grab the tabs and remove them. But as you work further in, it will become more difficult as there is a band that covers up the tabs (that dark silver ring on the outer clutch hub). I used a pair of blade screw drivers and slowly lifter the fiber plates out.
NOTE: There is a small spring with the last fiber plate that fits snuggly around the inner hub. If it comes out and you don't notice which way it was facing, the wider edge faces out.
http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/7762/clutchspringuy3.png

Step EIGHT: Examine the steel plates
If all your doing is replacing the fiber plates, check out the steel plates to make sure they are not warped or burnt.
http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/7602/dscf0849ga7.jpg

As you can see, the plate on the right is severely discolored (from doing full speed launches from my old job :D) I ended up replaced 4 of the steel plates.

Step Nine: Install the new clutch (sorry, no pictures)
Take the fiber plates and lay them out. One of them is different than the rest. That one goes in first, then a steel plate, then a fiber. Rinse, repeat until you are out of steel plates and the last plate is a fiber plate.
http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/3878/dscf0848xb6.jpg

Put the clutch inner cover on:
http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/4093/dscf0847gg0.jpg

You are going to need to push the cover back on. Because there was no pressure on the clutch pushrod, the clutch fluid has pushed it out just enough so that the clutch bolts won't thread on. Once that's done, install the springs and clutch bolts. I hand tighten them at first (to avoid cross-threading), then tighten them to 9FT LBS. I tighten them in a star pattern (tighten one, then the one across, so on and so forth).

Step Ten: Install clutch cover and new gasket

What I did was put all the bolts in the clutch cover, then put the new gasket on the bolts. This made it easier when putting it on the engine (kept the gasket in place) Tighten bolts (no torque spec listed) the two wire clips go on the upper and lower bolts on the right side. Refill with oil (if drained), reinstall plastics and GO RIDE.


Things I found out after:

1) if you do this job with the bike on the side stand, you do not need to drain the oil.
2) there was more here, but a forum crash took out everything after step 6
3) I'm so glad I have a lift now so I don't have to do this kind of job on the floor
4) Ignore the extra apostrophes, the forum software is still effing everything up

With pictures and everything.... ?

ORIGINAL: idodirt

With pictures and everything.... ?

Yup, just found out I need some steel plates so i won't be able to finish it until Friday.

Cool, now I won't be so afraid to slip it!

i had a few that were a little ugly and some steel wool seemed to help but they were only half screwed up. not like the black on there.
i like my new clutch

Very nice!

Looking forward to the rest. Good job! [sm=smiley20.gif]

Great job !! With this tutorial, this job goes from a mystery and not sure if you'd want to tackle, to it looks like a cake job. Maybe that's exaggerating, but it's well within the realm of the do-it youselfer. Can't wait for Chapter II.

Great ideea. From now on I will always take pictures of what services I'm doing on the bike, and if we all do that (the ones that take care of the bikes themselves) we wount need to go to a shop anymore. As I am a harley mechanick, I know how some people pay a lot of money to the shops to take care of simple stuff, stuff that they can do themselves easyly....
Keep up the good work

Sorry about the lack of an update. I was 'volunteered' to work yesterday. However, I did get to the dealer today, so the clutch as well as the speedo nut are in. Tooks some more pictures and hope to have an update after I get out of work tonight.

This is just awesome! If all of you skilled "do it you self" guy's took pictures like this, we could all become skilled at it.

Would someone please make a post on how to replace CCand CCT ;-) Kinda the biggest issue on the Cane

Updated the list. Maybe I'll start on the speedo gear that keeps on falling apart.

Great job on the pics and discription. That takes the hassels of trying to understand the manual.[sm=goodidea.gif]

So what did the job cost you and what would it have cost you if you took it to a shop

ORIGINAL: MarkR

So what did the job cost you and what would it have cost you if you took it to a shop


$60 for the fiber plates, $44.5 for the steel plates (you may not need them), $10 for the springs, and $8 for the gasket. So $122 with the steel plates or $80 without. If everything is setup just right, I could probably do the whole job in 45 minutes. Most shops would charge at least 1 hour, so add another $75

Any more updates? Also how do you know when your clutch needs work? My 91 CBR1000F has around 47,000 miles on it.

great write up. i'm new to the board. i just got a 94 cbr 1000f. the shifting in kinda notchy on it. any ideas how to adjust. the bike has 15000 on it. thanx

local://upfiles/15304/019FB07675564E03BEB5F0EBCFD004CE.jpg

Hey, welcome to the forum Maverick9611, nice ride. The clutches on our bikes are hydrolic, no real adjustment on them for the most part. There might be some adjustment to the shift pedal that might help in the way it feels.

ORIGINAL: cdrewferd

Any more updates? Also how do you know when your clutch needs work? My 91 CBR1000F has around 47,000 miles on it.


Not recommened as it's slightly illegal: find a nice 1/2 mile long straight road (industrial parks on the weekends are a good place). Launch the bike in first gear, pin the throttle wide open. Quickly shift into second at around 10k rpms and again hold the throttle wide open. On my bike, the rpms would rise almost back to 10k rpms before the clutch caught. Probably why my steel plates were burnt to a nice blue crisp. By the way, top speed in first gear is around 35-40mph, second should be somewhere near 65-70, so make sure your brakes work.

Or you could start of in first gear, say up to about 10mph, then open the throttle wide open. If the rpms rapidly increase, but you stay at 10mph or slightly faster (not going like a scalded cock), then your clutch is mostly likely slipping.

Still hasn't warmed up enough to take the bike out yet.

Ahh, well then I think mine's ok as when I ride it hard the revs only rise when the bike is going faster. Also, I thought that top speed in 1st gear was 65-70 mph? Any body else have any input on top speed in first gear?

Top speed is 63mph at 10,500 rpm with stock gearing. That's calculated. I've not had the opportunity to take a good look at the odometer when I'm turning that rpm in 1st.;)

yeah mid sixties sounds about right, but I can't look at the clock when it's pulling that hard either.

Just replaced my clutch today and it was really easy. I had just changed the oil a couple days before so I just put the bike on the sidestand and it wasn't a problem. My old clutch plates were still above the service minimum as were my clutch springs. The steel plates looked alright so I just scuffed them up with 80 grit. The roads are wet right now so the tire slips before the clutch, but we'll see if it did the trick soon. If it still slips I guess that I'll need to get some stronger springs.

Good effort on the DIY. You should go professional!

heeluva good job with the pics and all....now i can do this and not work on everything my wife wants me to do around the house, where and how do they come up with that much crap for husbands to do? another mystery of the universe unsolved...but you helped me with the clutch...Thanks

Did you put any grease or anything on the pushrod? My haynes manual says something about lubricating the push rod...but I am afraid grease would get on the fiber plates.

I just pulled the cover last night. Your pics are SOOO much better than the haynes manual. Thanks so much!!!

Tom
1987 CBR1000F

Did you put any grease or anything on the pushrod? My haynes manual says something about lubricating the push rod...but I am afraid grease would get on the fiber plates.

I just pulled the cover last night. Your pics are SOOO much better than the haynes manual. Thanks so much!!!

Tom
1987 CBR1000F

I think the manual was supposed to mean coat with oil.

Hurray for posting from work!!

FANTASTIC EFFORT! Thanks a million. I can't wait until I need to change mine out. Good project for me and the boy.