I just got the Hotbodies Flush Mount signals and was disappointed to find that they didn't work as running lights also. I really wanted to keep the running lights for the sake of visibility, so I thought about it overnight and came up with a plan. I looked more closely at the wiring this morning and ended up installing relays in the signal wiring that allows the Hotbodies to work as running lights as well as blinkers. If there's interest in it, I'll put together a how-to on it. Cost under $10.

Check the video to see them work. (obviously still some work to be done) Hotbodies Flush Mounts w/fix (http://www.jjbcreations.com/images/blinkers.MOV)

Hey, I'd like to know how you did it. Most aftermarket turn signals are only two-wired so you can't have running lights. But I'd like to have the running light option for safety as well.

There are plenty of dual filament signals available from exoticsportbike.com. That's where I got mine.

That's true, but I haven't found any that fit as perfectly as the Hotbodies.
http://www.hyperformanceparts.com/catalog/images/signals_f4i_pop-100x100.jpg
I really like the way they are made to fit within the contours of the fairing and aren't just a universal "stick-on" like so many-- the last ones I had were like this.

Anyway, I have decided to go ahead and create a "how-to" on this one for those who like the look of the hotbodies (or any other single filament style) but still want the security (even if it's purely psychological) of running lights. I won't just keep it all to myself! Keep an eye out for it in the next day or two!

lol, twist both the positive wires together and stick them to the single positive. pretty easy if you ask me. When the blinker wire comes on, it cuts out the running light wire.

When I do that on the f4i the indicators on the display remain on. It would be riding with two bright yellow lights on the dash all the time. Is this also the case for you?

Yeah, my dash lights stay on. But I got used to it, seams like they were supposed to be on now.

Lets see if you did it the same way I was thinking: 85-ground, 86 turn signal input, 30 constant, 87a turn signal output. And you did 1 relay per side.

mxman87--I think that would work, but if I'm reading your notes right, that relies on the aftermarket relay to do the flashing and I wanted to avoid that. It's the same relay, and yes, one per side, but wired in a way that uses the relay only when the signal is turned on or off.

BigWill--Maybe a person gets used to the lights on, but I'd rather have as few lights on the display as possible. (i.e. only when needed)

Just give me a little longer and I'll type up the how-to!;)

Yeah I'm not a fan of BigWill's method and having to have the dash turn signals on. I'll just wait for your jjb

The way I have it, it would use the normally closed contacts to run the running lights and then it would turn off (flash) when the relay opens. This way the relay only operates when the signal is on.

Okay, I think I see what you're saying, but that leaves both the blinker and the running lights on at the same time which results in the always-on dash lights.

It keeps them isolated from each other. 30 and 87a are normally closed so if you hook up the running light to 30 and 87a out to the signal then they will normally stay on. When you hit the turn signal it will open the circuit and cause them to flash off.

try this link. it has a wiring diagram so showing diodes in place so you can hook up the running lights and the turn signal wire to the same line and not get back flow of current

http://hooliganbiketech.dynup.net/hondacbr1000rrweb/1000RR_Mods/1000RR_mototeck/mototeckwiringdiagwithrunninglightdiodefix.htm

looks like the diode method takes the cake over any relay method. Just goes to show what happens when a guy without much education in electronics (me) tries to fix a problem...;)

mxman87-- I think that once you get in there and try your idea out you'll see that the wiring is not like what you're thinking.


Besides, the method used in the link baxsom provided is a much simpler and efficient method.

I just got used to the dash lights on LoL

I can't believe I didn't think of the diode, seeing as I have to at least do some diode isolating on most of the alarms I do.

And where can we find these wonderful, magical diodes?

radio shack, or go into your local best buy, circuit city, quality auto sound, and ask an installer to hook you up.

ORIGINAL: jjbtao
looks like the diode method takes the cake over any relay method.

Yea that is exactly what I did... a couple diodes and resistors and it was good to go. They still blink rather quickly but I don't mind that at all.

Can anyone post pics of their wiring set-up with the resistors and diodes?

Well now that I've got 'em all covered up with shrink tubing you wouldn't be able to see much. But that link above is a pretty good diagram of how to set up the circuit - the only thing I added was a resistor to the turn signal lead (this will help slow the blinker down a bit). Resistors are pretty cheap so get a few different sizes (1k, 2k, 5k, 10k ohm) to get the flash rate where you want it.

Sorry I can't get you any pics...

Okay, so it's not a photograph, but a little more visually representative of what it looks like. I switched one side of my bike over to the diode method, so I now have one side with a relay and the other with the diodes. They both work exactly the same, you can just hear the faint "click" of the relay on one side.

If you're comfortable with basic wiring (i.e. soldering) this is an easy one. 2 "1N5400" diodes from radioshack(per side). Just be sure to shrink wrap everything to avoid shorts circuits!

If you don't want to use the plug you can just solder the red wire from the aftermarket blinkers directly to the two diodes and the black wire directly to the green.


http://www.jjbcreations.com/images/blinkermod00.jpg


adapted from:
http://hooliganbiketech.dynup.net/hondacbr1000rrweb/1000RR_Mods/1000RR_mototeck/mototeckwiringdiagwithrunninglightdiodefix.htm

Do you have to solder or can you simply splice the diodes and wires together and then wrap it with electrical tape?

BTW, thank your kid for that great drawing [sm=joke.gif]

um... yeah... I'll be sure to thank my ...um... kid, yeah, that's it... my kid made that drawing..;)

No, you don't have to use solder, use whatever you'd like. Solder's just the best option. The diode leads are solid, though, so you'll need some sort of crimp connector, the old "twist and tape" method probably won't hold long at all. I'm sure others will jump all over you for it, but hey, if you don't have the tools or the skills, use whatever you got. It may rattle loose over time, so just keep an eye on it and you'll be fine.

A buddy of mine back in middle school used to use hot glue to connect wires... he could never figure out why his RC car wouldn't run right...

If you wanted to do the diode fix and install resistors to correct the blink rate, where do you guys think the resistor should be placed? I was thinking between the two wires coming from the flushmount, but then the resistor would be hot all the time because the current from the running light circuit would pass through it when its not blinking. What about if you hook it between the flushmount ground wire and just the blinker wire (before or after diode???)? What do you guys think is best?

looks like i found the solution to my problem...thanks guys!!!...
oh...i added the 50ohm resistors from radio shack...wasn't too impressive...so i took it off...

I want to thank all involved in information on the fix. It worked as planned. My only question is how do you know which diode to use. I used 4001 doides after trying #4001-4007 I bought assorted package. I am also using resisters on the back light LED intergrated light I added. I would still like to slow down blink rate a little but figure now I will just add a different signal relay. Does that sound correct ?
Thanks

if you have LEDs all the way around then you need resistors all the way around

use the diodes mentioned in the link i posted

i am pretty sure that he mentions resistors size as well
connect the resistor across the + and - wire

make sure and wrap it good they get hot

is there a specific diode to get? id like to pickup a set this weekend

The diode method worked great for me but I still need a resistor to create a load for the flasher relay. I tried to get a replacement relay but I couldn't find one for my 05 CBR 600RR. I read in another forum that it's in the instrument cluster but I haven't found a definitive answer on that one. So my question is what size resistor do I need?

what size diodos did you use

Used (2/side) 1N5400 diodes on my bike this weekend and it works great!! I did not put any resistors on the front yet. I have an integrated rear tail light by Clear Solutions that came with resistors (5ohm x 20W) "BIG" that I put on, but didn't know which ones to use on the front?? Radio Shack did not have the same size as I used on the rear and I would like to use something smaller in size if possible... Any help for the fronts will be great!!

You actually only need one diode per side. The parking light wire is back feeding into the blinker system causing the indicator lights and on mine the rear blinkers to stay on. If you put a diode on just the blinker wire and then connect the three (blinker lead, running lead, positive LED lead) lead wires at on point. This allows the running lights to get to the light but, it can't go back up into the blinker system.


The_Dickens

06 CBR600RR

Nvm my question has been answered.

I still need to know what sizes resistors I need to use please I havent been able to figure it out thanks in advance for the help.

Awesome diagram! Works great, thanks!

hotbodies flush mounts also look great on the rear of the bike will have a pic of my bike up soon

Protons look every bit as good as this brand and come with the wiring for running and turns.

I just finished this fix and it was way easier than I expected...A pack of $1.39 diodes and some shrink tubing and even an idiot like me could do it. Thanks to all who posted on this and especially jjbtao for the great diagram...

hey, so i started this up today and everything went perfectly (thanks to the super simple drawn diagram on page 2) for the left side. on the right i set everything up the same way, but i can't get a blink. it comes on as a running light, but simply goes out when i turn on the signal. i checked all my wiring (i think the green wire is the blinker, right?) and everything seemed nice and tight.

any ideas on what i did wrong for that side? also i'm having some trouble getting the front back on...are there any secrets to getting it to fit up right?

thanks all

nevermind, i finally got it all fixed up. thanks anyways.

hey thirsty! how did you end up fixing your problem? and also what resistors did you get and how do you connect them?

works like a dream with the diodes...... working on a plug and play box so both headlights stay on with low beam (high beam at about 40%) then both work 100% when on high.... will let you know how it all comes together. there will be no cutting factory wires.

Yes I would like to know hoe to wire the hot bodies fonrt blinkers to stay on. I also have an intergrated tail light. Tried wiring the front blinkers and the tail light would stay yellow, and front blinkers would not flash.

Haha after reading what I wrote kinda of wishy washy. Anyway I saw that video of the relay allowing the hotbodies blinker to be use as running lights as well as blinker usage. Can anyone tell me how to wiring a relay and what size relay I need for a 07 cbr 1000. Thanks