Ok so I bought this bike and it needed some work. I origianlly didnt know how i was going to repair the plastics but read up on this stuff called plastic weld and it worked great. I decided to take a bunch of pictures so people could see how this proccess worked from start to finish. I know pictures always help me out whenever im trying to do a project so here you go hope you enjoy.

Here are some pictures of the bike when i bought it.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/kreush33/f4ibike.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/kreush33/f4icrack.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/kreush33/f4icrack2.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/kreush33/f4ichip.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/kreush33/f4irash.jpg
The rounded part in the middle of the fairing where it buldges out was worn down due to road rash so i had to build it back up to make it a hump again. And underneath the decals was a whole that i ended up filling with pastic weld and sanding smooth.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/kreush33/tailrash.jpg

Basically its just like bondo except for its epoxy and its plastic haha. The one i bought came in a two part suringe and all you did was push the plunger down and the right amount came out of each part. Then you just mix together and apply like bondo. I went heavy and sanded down the extra so that i would get a nice smooth finsih and it would be level with the rest of the piece.

I initially thought i would primer and then go back with glazing puddy to fill in any inperfections but I didnt have to as the plastic weld came out even once it was sanded down. Here are all the parts with the plastic weld applied. It only takes about 5-10 minutes to set up which was good because i had to hold the two peices that were totally cracked, together and stay still. I just put my mind on other things and tried not to think about how slowly 10 minutes can go by. Also i was suprised at how well this stuff actually holds together. Originally i was just going to use the plastic weld on the front and then fiberglass behind but ended up just using the plastic weld on both sides of the repair to get a good strong bond. It was cleaner and easier then usuing fiber glass.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/kreush33/uppercrackplasticweld.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/kreush33/uppercrackplasticweld2.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/kreush33/tailplasticweld.jpg
I also removed all the deecals before i started. I tried using the sticker remover and goo gone but they both didnt work so i went with a good old hair dryer and fingernail technique and it worked better than anything else.

I got a little wrapped up in my work and forgot to take pictures of the side fairing after i put the pastic weld on but i did get picture of it once it was sanded and ready for paint. Here are all the parts after they have been sanded down and ready for paint.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/kreush33/f4iupper2.jpg
This is the totally cracked side of the upper fairing but it is hung upside down

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/kreush33/CBR600F4i002.jpg
The upper corner of of the fairing was totally broken off i had to weld it back in place and that was probably the hardest part because i didnt know if the angle was right or not

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/kreush33/f4iupper.jpg
There was a chip where the mounting hole was for the windscreen so i used a piece of cardboard with some wax paper over it as a backing and then applied the plastic weld over the whole thing. Once it dried the wax paper released from the bond and i sanded the edge smooth and then the surface and re-drilled the hole for the wondscreen
[IMG]http://i42.photobucket.com/a

Good job, looks very good

Wow, looks great! Can't wait to see it all painted and back together again. Also saved a ton of dough by not having to get new body pieces. Also, what were those socket head cap screws used for above each headlight?

looks awesome man, nice repair job.

Wow! That looks awesome!! I have a few cracks that i was wanting to fix and a buddy of mine used some fiber glass and resson (sp?) and now it has hardened so much that my front cowl wont flex with my fairings and doesnt fit right so i was thinking about taking it all off and trying something else......i think i may go with what you did! Where can i get that plastic weld stuff?

DWhite the screw caps were there to hold the front cowl in place I guess the stock mounts broke so the guy improvised them. I kept them because i am going to use those whole to mount the frot cowl again, but I am going to replace those screws with nice crome hex screws that will match the windscreen screws.

Yeah the fiberglass is hard and not very flexable at all. I used in once to back up one of the plastic welds and then i had to sand it down again and it was not fun times.

I got the pastic weld at My auto parts store. It is used for bumper repairs and stuff like that on cars. The one i used was called Perma Poxy I'll include a picure of it here. Also here is the Fairing with the decals on painted and cleared. I still have to buff it out and the front cowl too. The tail section has to be repainted but once its all done i'll definatly post up some before and after pictures of the bike. Should look 100% better from when i got it.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/kreush33/plasticweld.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/kreush33/fairingcleared.jpg

Good deal, just like new again!

Wow that looks really good. I used the same stuff to do some repairs to my tabs that hold the headlight in place and its still holding up as far as I know. Looks like you really know what your doing when it comes to painting. I need to do some repairs to my bike but I'm probably going to end up sending them out to get done, but I'm not sure yet. But great work, I can't wait to see the finished pics.

-Jesse-

Wow man that looks great! I have one or two small cracks in my side fairing that need to be fixed before paint, now I know what to use thanks for the info! Great how to wright up also, can't wait to see the pics. when it's done.

Awesome job man, the pieces turned out looking real sharp. Can't wait to see the before and afters. Have fun!

-Berg

Great tips, i'll be fixing my bike soon too.... so i'll try to post up information once i'm ready.

I am probably going to stay after work on monday and get all of it finished and back together. Im trying to get it done as soon as possible so i can ride by next weekend.we'll see if that happens though. I'll post new pics as soon as i can.

So finally everything is done here are the finished pictures after painting decaling and clear coating enjoy.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/kreush33/cbrfinished008.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/kreush33/cbrfinished006.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/kreush33/cbrfinished005.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/kreush33/cbrfinished001.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/kreush33/cbrfinished004.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/kreush33/rearseatnew.jpg

Wow that is amazing work man. Doesn't look like there was any damage to it at all.

I just bought some of the plastic weld also. I have a similar problem on my windscreen bolt holes. the tab is completely gone, so I had to make a brand new one out of an old fairing. How is the plastic weld holing up on the end of the windscreen. I tried some other stuff, and it broke right off.

yea its awesome stuff i use it all the time ;0

What kind of tool did you guys use to apply? I find the stuff to be a bit thick. Did you thin it out and brush it on maybe?

PluS - The stuff smells strong- Use in well ventilated area!

used a razor to apply but and straight edge will work well in smoothing it out. Yeah i have a painters mask that i wore cause it smells awful, and im sure the fumes arent good for you

I cracked some tabs on my headlights (2005 600rr) and they are loose, the top ones are in place but most of the rest are cracked how can I use the product to keep them in place without damaging the front Fairing, or is that inevitable? Will there ever be a time where I will need to remove my headlights and they are stuck in and I'm just screwed? Where can I get the stuff?

here are some pics of my bike after new replicals.com decals, and after fixing the upper fairing windscreen piece.decals (http://www.cbrforum.com/photo.asp?photoid=2875&asortType=6&apage=1)decals2 (http://www.cbrforum.com/photo.asp?photoid=2874&asortType=6&apage=1)plastic weld (http://www.cbrforum.com/photo.asp?photoid=2873&asortType=6&apage=1)

Some of my cracks have been re-injured. What can I do to get better strength from the plastic repair? What do you guys recommend to repairing contact points on the backside of plastics?

What do you recommend for cleaning up the parts prior to applying the plastic weld, especially in areas where you can't sand down first?

Mounting tabs: I have a few here and there missing, how does the stuff hold up?

Missing areas, how did you "build-up" the areas where there was missing material? I read your part about the cardboard and wax paper, but more like the area on the side fairing where the mount is (I've got the same hole, and no place for the screw to hold) the one next to the frame slider hole.

And what about the tail, how did you fill that gap?

Are there any parts whereyou would now just recommend someone to replace rather than repair?

I used wax and grease remover to clean the parts before i applied the plastic weld, the way it actually works is it chemically reacts with the exhisting plastic and melts it a little and then bonds together when it hardens back up. or at least the stuff i used did. Admittedly though the weakest points on the bike are on the upper fairing where i had to re-attach the corner piece, this could have been (as well as any other spot) strengthened with fliberglass backing to make it stronger.

In retrospect there really weren't any pieces that i would consider buying before repairing. I was looking into buying a new upper fairing because of all the damage and cracks but for the cost of an unpainted one it was just not realistic for me, when i have all the tools i need to repair it for a fraction of the cost.

When i "built up" the side bump i basically just kept mixing the plastic weld applying it waiting for it to dry and then doing it all over again until i had enough build up that i could start to shape it the way i wanted. I did try to save myself time and roughly shape the wet plastic weld when i was applying so that i wouldnt have to try and sand a nice curve from a messy glob of weld haha. It just took time waiting for each application to dry but all in all it wasnt to hard, i actually had fun doing it as opposed to repairing the upper fairing. I cursed that thing to hell and drank many beers during the process of that one.

As for the tail there was no gap?? it was just road rash that ate away some of the plastic. But if there was a hole or a gap i would have used the cardboard with the wax paper over it on the back and then applied the plastic weld on the outter side of the fairing, once it is dry the wax paper will release and you will have a nice filled hole. then just use the "build up" technique and sand to the desired shape.

plead 5th i dont really know what you mean when you say the tabs are cracked? I mean you can just use the weld along the cracks and it will seal then back up. Also i believe the plastic weld is hard enough to "tap" so you can thread a screw into it if you would like, that way you wont have to worry about it being stuck on there forever. If you had a picture of what you are talking about i might be able to better advise you on how you might go about fixing it.

I think i answered everyones questions, if you have any more just ask, and if i dont responde just e-mail me at kreush33@msn.com

p.s. Don't get caught ridin dirty' hahahaha

Nice work. I'll have to look into that for my mid fairings on my '96

very nice work and thanks for the nice write up as well.

I have extra paint left over if anyone would want to buy it. its the factory silver color. for the 2001 CBR600 i will go find out the paint code but i just don't feel like getting up right now. its At least half a quart. Which is enough to paint the whole bike. I used half because i had to repaint the tail section and the upper cowl twice. LEt me know, its just sitting here now so i will entertain any offers.

you deserve major props on that one. The bike looks great. I guess with a little time and patience anything can be done. Good work.

THANKS for ALL the info and pic's !!!

Just a quick question, why are you only using one mirror?

Second, do you have any reccomendations for plastic parts actually missing? Would I just use fiber glass to to fill the missing sections?

where did you get the paint? Im tring to get the code so i can get it mixed but nobody has the code for r258 (winning red)

for the small timers, the plastic weld will work. But for serious business runners, duramix 4030 is the way to go. 6oz cost like $48 and the applicator gun cost $125. I use this stuff all the time, and it works wonders.

I use something that I get from the local paint and autobody supply store it just says epoxy on the box and its to seperate tubes that you mix at a 1 to 1 ratio I love this stuff is to works awsome and only cost like $20 bucks

i had some pretty serious damage on my fairings...theyre still in the repairing stages. I used fiberglass to reinforce the backside of all cracks...plastic weld to fill in any gaps or missing chips from the front....and im probably gonna have to use some form of glazing putty to smooth it all out prior to paint. Currently my mangled ignition and other things are higher on the list though. Did i mention it was a stolen recovery? Good luck with the repairs, and thanks for all the tips.

Will this stuff bond fiberglass to the plastic? I have an upper missing a decent sized chunk (about 3 inches long) and I have a fiberglass piece that someone made to fill the void, but it doesn't stick to the plastic. So if there's anything to make a strong bond between the abs and the fiberglass piece, let me know please.

Or, could I make a mold out of cardboard and wax paper, and just keep dumping this plastic weld on until the missing piece is filled, and then just sand to shape?

some good work man....my right mid fairing is grinded down, is there anything that i can do to reshape the corner that's gone? like some rubbing compound or something....appreciate it and good work with the bike....

When i was using the fiberglass it seemed to bond pretty well to the plastic i had a hard time getting it off once it dried. SO maybe you just want to stick with fiberglass on the back and then fill in the edges with the epoxy once its in place. I bought my paint from the local paint store, they mixed it up for me and brought it to my job. I still have the silver if anyone needs it. THe only thing i can think of to shape the corner is to fiberglass it or you can dump a bunch of plastic weld there and wait for it to dry and then shape it. Either way sounds like it might be alot of work.

I am currently looking for a new bike so if anyone is selling theirs please let me know I live in NY, either a Honda or Suzuki

Thanks for the tip......as you can see, i think i might have similar fairing disasters like you. You'll have to excuse the low quality pics, i was usin my phone, but you can still tell that my **** is f!$%@^!$ up....so if there is anything else you can see here that might need more attention, please let me kno, much appreciated....... and i also don't kno how to put the pics on here, tried imageshack.us, but it doesn't seem to work.....sorry for that.



local://upfiles/14956/805E5D79DF2048EBB20992B5C4322A83.jpg

Here is a place for the exact color code oem paint. http://www.cyclesurge.com/servlet/StoreFront

bike looks nice.

i have a cracked, gashed scrape of a mess on all my plastics. i was going to buy those painted sets off ebay then i saw this. i figure its worth a try.

if i do this i will be taking it to get it painted. i no nothing about how they paint and set the plastic up for it but will the paint stick to this? from the little i know about painting they sand it, priemer it, then paint it right? any thing special you have to do to the welds for it to be painted?

from what i read from your posts if something is missing from the faring you can just pour lots on and sand it down to shape? and for gashes can i put this stuff on then smear it in the gash then sand it down?

also do you pour both tubes of it out in to a bowl or something? or do you put a little of both the tubes where you want it and work with it on the fairing? how did you mix it up and apply exactly i am confused on that.
thanks

Yeah you can fill gashes with it and also pour in on a spot that is missing as long as there is something for it to stick to. I wouldn't recommend using it to fill large missing pieces only small stuff. You have to mix the two tubes of epoxy/hardener together before you apply it to the plastic, i used a popsickle stick and a pience of clean metal, you can use anything though as long as it gets the job done. When paiting it whoever does the paint might use a plastic adhesive promotor so it will stick better to the plastics but that is what is normally used regardless of repairs of not. The paint should have no problem sticking to the plastic as long as they use that or special primer for plastics.

If this is your first time doing repairs like the one thing i can recommend is that you buy a can of primer from the parts store and after you think you have sanded it down smooth and have the repair flush go over it with some primer to see if it looks flat with paint on it, if it doesnt you need to sand some more until it does. PRimer is good cause you can get the sandable primer and it also fills tiny holes and scratches that might be left behind.

do you spray the priemer on or can you brush it on? i have no equipment and no experince with painting

They even make rattle can primer

I don't understand how the cardboard and wax paper works with the hole in the front fairing......i was trying to picture it, but nothin came up....

The cardboard is used as a backing, the wax paper keeps it from sticking to the paper cardstock. Or you could forget the wax paper and just put on the goo, the tear the paper away.

Something that worked for me was a piece of aluminum foil with a very light coating of motor oil. The aluminum holds a shape better and the oil makes it stick-proof. But be sure to use a very very light coat of oil and take the time to make a test piece first so you get the feel of it.

i kinda gotta stupid question if anyone would entertain it. After using blow dryer and fingernail method to remove decals, can they be stuck back on? Some of my decals have the slightest wrinkle in the middle of the sticker and I can't seem to let it go.[>:]

It's a gamble. It will peel back and can be restuck, but it might not stick as well. It really depends on the adhesive. Don't let it get dirty while its peeled back and you should be okay.

When i peeled up the decals they were stuck down pretty well and i was unable to peel and decal off whole. I would leave it unless you are plaining on re-decaling the whole piece that you want to fix. Its going to be a lot of work if you accidentally rip the decal apart.

**** i wiish i had skillz to do that to mine but i think my fairings are gone. nice work tho.

I am currently in California for school but I am going home this summer for a couple months and was thinking that if anyone wants me to repair their fairings I would be glad to take on some work, I am going to need some money and i thought that it would be a good way to help people out and make some cash on the sides. There is only so much you can do to repair stuff though, so if you want me to consider repairing send me pictures of the fairings ect. you want fixed. I don't know if im going to be working at the paint shop though so I can fix the damage and primer but thats probably going to be it sorry.

Pricing will vary depending on damage, and how much work will be needed. PM me or e-mail me if interested. Just putting it out there, I thought it might be fun to do some of this on the side. Also the more prep work you do before you send them to me the cheaper the price, i.e stripping decals paint ect.

Soooo I sold my F4i and bought a GSXR.....Sorry :( don't hate me that much, I am thinking of doing some stuff to it as well and will post up new pictures if you want, also I am going to be installing LED's so i'll do a tutorial on that if people are interested, but its pretty simple and i don't know if anyone else has already done one so maybe i will let that one be.

thought I'd add something I have found to repair cracks in ABS

methylene chloride cement

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=usplastic&category%5Fna me=25394&product%5Fid=2273