Stock Headlight bulb swap
#1
Stock Headlight bulb swap
Hey guys. I have a 98 cbr f3 and am wondering about swapping the OEM stock headlight for a blue xenon bulb. I know the bulb has to be 3-prong base and should be 12V 60/55 watt. I was wondering though if switching to this bulb would put out less heat or maybe even more? and if it would have any effect on my battery? here is a link of what im looking at http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...T.ac=SLIsearch
any feedback would be great guys. Thanks!
any feedback would be great guys. Thanks!
#2
#4
Might be to late but dont get the bulbs in the link, there have less light output then factory and are not much of a colour change. The blue on the bulbs just takes away certain spectrums of light to give a more whitish look, The will not be blue.
Go to ddmtuning.com and get HID probably 8000k.
3x the light output and noy much more money and they are true blue.
The first picture is the blue bulbs from the link on this page on the right side and the HID's on the left to show a comparison. and the second pic is with both HID's
Go to ddmtuning.com and get HID probably 8000k.
3x the light output and noy much more money and they are true blue.
The first picture is the blue bulbs from the link on this page on the right side and the HID's on the left to show a comparison. and the second pic is with both HID's
#7
Why blue? Your eyes are most sensitive to light with the colour of the sun, around 5000k. With two bulbs both putting out 2000 lumens, one at 5k and one at 10k, the 5k one will allow you to see better. Check out Daniel Stern's website.
I think the best value in H4 bulbs are the Narva RangePower +50 or the Osram Rallye +50 bulbs. These put out 50% more lumens than the average bulb while consuming roughly the same 55w power. They don't filter out and block light in order to arrive at the "blue" colour.
I think the best value in H4 bulbs are the Narva RangePower +50 or the Osram Rallye +50 bulbs. These put out 50% more lumens than the average bulb while consuming roughly the same 55w power. They don't filter out and block light in order to arrive at the "blue" colour.
Last edited by dannoxyz; 05-21-2011 at 04:48 AM.
#8
PIAA H4 Xtreme White Plus - Rated at 4000K and providing 110watts of light from only 55watts these bulbs will provide a brilliant Xtreme cool white light that will light up road hazards and street signs long before a normal halogen bulb.The Blue topcoat on these bulbs adds a slight blue tint to the lamp for enhanced curb appeal. (Direct cut and paste from PIAA)
PIAA
PIAA
#9
PIAA H4 Xtreme White Plus - Rated at 4000K and providing 110watts of light from only 55watts these bulbs will provide a brilliant Xtreme cool white light that will light up road hazards and street signs long before a normal halogen bulb.The Blue topcoat on these bulbs adds a slight blue tint to the lamp for enhanced curb appeal. (Direct cut and paste from PIAA)
PIAA
PIAA
They are expensive ($75-$90).
#10
Yeah, PIAA is crap and doesn't last very long. You're paying through the nose for their marketing campaign. Watts is a measurement of power-consumption and doesn't reflect anything about actual light-output. Lumens is the unit of light-output. A common method of getting more lumens out of the same watts is to make shorter and thinner filaments that burn hotter, but don't last as long. Here's a comparison of light-output of commonly used aftermarket upgrade light-bulbs and their lifespan:
1700 lumens, 350 hours: Plus-30 High Efficacy (CPI BrightLight, Osram Super, Sylvania Xtravision, Narva Rangepower+30, Tungsram High Output, Philips Premium)
1750 lumens, 350 hours: Plus-50 Ultra High Efficacy (CPI Super Bright Light, Philips VisionPlus, Osram Silverstar, Narva Rangepower+50, Tungsram Megalicht, but not Sylvania Silverstar)
1780 lumens, 340 hours: Plus-80/90 Mega High Efficacy (Philips Xtreme Power, Osram Night Breaker)
1380 lumens, 250 hours: Blue-coated 'extra white' (CPI Bright Light Blue, Osram CoolBlue, Narva Rangepower Blue, Philips BlueVision or CrystalVision, Tungsram Super Blue or EuroBlue, Sylvania Silverstar or Silverstar Ultra, also PIAA, Hoen, Nokya, Polarg, etc)
sources: www.danielsternlighting.com and www.candlepowerforums.com
archive: Overboost.com - High Performance Headlights
Note that coating a bulb with anything will reduce the light-output. That's because you're filtering out and blocking red and green colours out in order to make the light look blue. It's not the same as pure output that has a purple overtone-tint like HID. The PIAA bulbs have the lowest light-output for the shortest lifespan. If you're going to be spending that kind of money every 5-6 months on bulbs, you might as well get HID projectors.
1700 lumens, 350 hours: Plus-30 High Efficacy (CPI BrightLight, Osram Super, Sylvania Xtravision, Narva Rangepower+30, Tungsram High Output, Philips Premium)
1750 lumens, 350 hours: Plus-50 Ultra High Efficacy (CPI Super Bright Light, Philips VisionPlus, Osram Silverstar, Narva Rangepower+50, Tungsram Megalicht, but not Sylvania Silverstar)
1780 lumens, 340 hours: Plus-80/90 Mega High Efficacy (Philips Xtreme Power, Osram Night Breaker)
1380 lumens, 250 hours: Blue-coated 'extra white' (CPI Bright Light Blue, Osram CoolBlue, Narva Rangepower Blue, Philips BlueVision or CrystalVision, Tungsram Super Blue or EuroBlue, Sylvania Silverstar or Silverstar Ultra, also PIAA, Hoen, Nokya, Polarg, etc)
sources: www.danielsternlighting.com and www.candlepowerforums.com
archive: Overboost.com - High Performance Headlights
Note that coating a bulb with anything will reduce the light-output. That's because you're filtering out and blocking red and green colours out in order to make the light look blue. It's not the same as pure output that has a purple overtone-tint like HID. The PIAA bulbs have the lowest light-output for the shortest lifespan. If you're going to be spending that kind of money every 5-6 months on bulbs, you might as well get HID projectors.
Last edited by dannoxyz; 05-22-2011 at 05:35 PM.