So you wanna convert to a 520 chain? Here's how I did it ...

First -- why? Less rotational mass, less unsprung weight and I wanted a slight gear reduction anyway.

Second -- what will ya need? Standard hand tools (although an impact wrench and die grinder will speed things up a lot), rear stand, chain breaker and riveter, lots of rags and a torque wrench.

 

Now let's begin:

Put the bike on the swingarm stand and loosen the axle nut. Don't remove the axle at this time.

 

Run the adjusters in fully on both sides and push the wheel towards the front. This will give you mondo slack.

 

Now we'll concentrate on the front sprocket removal. I have Sato rearsets so I just removed the shifter linkage (gotta take the bolt out so it'll slide off the spline) and tucked it outta the way. Stock shifter may require more disassembly. Remove clutch slave cylinder (DON'T SQUEEZE THE LEVER!!!). Pull out the rod. Tuck any offending hoses out of the way. Pull cover out carefully. Take off metal chain guide (be careful not to lose the dowels).

 

Clean all the pieces and put them somewhere safe. Here's what you should have off so far.

 

If you have an impact wrench, remove the front sprocket bolt. It is just like any other bolt -- lefty loosey! If you're stuck with only hand tools have someone apply the rear brake while you loosen the bolt. Once the bolt and washer are removed it's time to cut and remove the chain. I cut my chain at the master link with a ziz wheel -- took 30 seconds max. If you have to use a chain breaker I suggest using a grinder (dremel) or a file to grind down the master link rivet and then press out the pin. You only have to press out 1 pin to break the chain.

 

Remove the old chain carefully so as not to bind on anything or scratch stuff. Remove the front sprocket (should just slide off). Put the new sprocket on and run the bolt in hand tight. You'll notice the new 520 sprocket seems off center -- more hub on one side. The side with more hub sticking out MUST face you. As a rule this will be the side with the stamped numbers. If the new sprocket is installed backward the chain will be misaligned and you will have a very bad day.

 

Yes, it does appear that I'm giving someone the bird in that picture Remove the axle and rear wheel. I find a 4' 2X4 under the wheel helps to balance it while removing. Lay the wheel sprocket side up. Remove the sprocket nuts and washers (God bless the impact wrench) Remove the old sprocket and install the new one pretty side up. Torque the sprocket nuts to 47ft/lbs. Note: you don't have to remove the cush drive unit from the wheel as I did in the pictures. It's actually easier to leave it on the wheel -- especially when torquing the nuts.

 

Reinstall rear wheel. Run the new chain on the sprockets and have it overlap at the rear sprocket. Make sure the wheel is all the way forward (adjusters in). Break the chain at the overlap point. Make absolutely sure to get this step right -- it sux to cut the chain 3 times and it's still too short.

 

Insert master link -- remember to use supplied grease on the O-rings (RK's come already lubed - D.I.D. has tube-o-grease). Press on side plate. Mine measured .700 inches outside to outside. Check the other side plates to get your measurement as it may vary from chain to chain. Use the rivet tool to make the perfect rivet. If you're a noobie I really suggest that you buy the chain a bit long and buy an extra master link and practice pin removal, pressing and riveting BEFORE you actually do it to your bike. You're talking an extra $6 in parts but believe me it's worth it. I riveted until I got two beautiful .220 inch shrooms.